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Fixing the little things | Volvo L90F Wheel Loader

Apr 12, 2024
scrap Hey guys Sam, here with Scrappy Industries, we're back with our Volvo


doing some repairs. First on our list is to change this fuel transfer pump, it is located here on the other side of the primary fuel filter at the back of the engine. I guess technically it's on the front of the engine, if it was in most applications then we have this belt drive fuel transfer pump. I am changing it because I believe the one on the machine is our source of air coming into the fuel system which is causing a hard starting problem if you open the hood hit the hand pump it will start right away there is air coming in even If it sits for half an hour, it receives a significant amount of air.
fixing the little things volvo l90f wheel loader
I notice when the current pump is running. It leaks a


fuel externally, so there is definitely a leak. Some of the guys in the comments of the last video mentioned that you can change the seal and all that, they didn't know that at that time the parts book only shows the number. For this whole deal, which is quite convenient, you don't even have to pull the pulley or anything, so you can just change it. This costs like 180 dollars. If you wanted to wait for it to arrive from abroad, you could get it cheaper. less than $100, but I thought let's change it, we can always separate the old one, try to reseal it, we'll have a replacement if we need it, something like that, so let's do it so you can see this somewhat buried transfer pump.
fixing the little things volvo l90f wheel loader

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fixing the little things volvo l90f wheel loader...

Back there, I think what we're going to have to remove is the primary fuel filter, that way we can get our hands in there, we might as well have to unhook its fuel line anyway, so we might as well take it off. out of the way, so on this side of the engine we have our alternator. I thought it was on the same belt, but it's actually not. You can see that the alternator belt is on its own and that of the fuel transfer pump. it's up front and then the air conditioning is on a third belt so we actually have three v-belts in there, kind of weird, but one thing I thought was really cool is that the alternator here has an air intake system which has a tube that goes up and sucks. from the pre-cleaner way up on the hood so all the air the alternator draws in is nice and clean, it's not the dirty dusty air here under the hood that should definitely help with longevity.
fixing the little things volvo l90f wheel loader
I thought it was a cool idea, so let's keep looking. Taking this a


further, I'm pretty sure we have to open these doors, take out this back panel, which requires pulling on a couple of bottom doors. It doesn't look like much here, grab the impact, Buzz, all that and we'll be able to get from this side and get to the


, think that's all this plate is holding, no matter how much pressure washing you can do, as soon as start taking


off, you need to do more, not much, holding this plate on this row of bolts at the top and then on the other side we have the same plate at the bottom.
fixing the little things volvo l90f wheel loader
I'm going to remove those things and we'll work. I'm getting this guy out of there, the last bolt, I think it seems anyway. Look at that access, it's definitely a very convenient serviceability and look at how this pump slides in here to tension that belt. This is our AC belt and then our alternator belt on the right side of the machine is still 12mm, no it's not. must have graduated to 13 at least on this machine, you know it's going to be metric, no doubt one is tight, try to avoid bleeding, here we go, this is the pivot point up here, wow, our Lace was left during the trip. but I guess let's leave those bolts started.
I'm going to leave the adjusting bolt and pivot bolt started. If we loosen these banjo bolts, it looks like about 22 mm and about 19 millimeters on that type, we come out about 22 on the. money 19 in the money there's this beautiful fil and the fuel tank is here below us, so we shouldn't worry about losing fuel out of there, it might have a little bit of recoil. I can grab a couple of hog mats, see how convenient? They do this so you come back here with that tray out of the way. Like, so we take the supply off the pump, we take the outlet off the pump.
Oh, there went one of our B joints, aha, woohoo, there's our culprit, look how. Bad, the bad condition of the bearings on this pump is bad enough, but we're going to take this guy out with this bolt and this bolt now we're going to put our new pump in there. I think we only need like 10mm, yeah, maybe. maybe if I had taken a 10 and not an 11, it's a 10 MIP, that guy, that guy, we'll give this stand a quick little bath and it'll be ready for round two, that's how it tightens, it looks like you put a /2 on the drive ratchet or breaker bar, tighten the belt while you tighten the bolt here on the adjuster and at the end of the day I think that's good enough so I just want to do a quick little comparison that I always I like to do. to verify that our parts appear to match any type of after market equivalent.
I'm sure we have it here now, but it looks like it does all we really need to do with that's the side of the pulley, I think, and we have the bolts that go in here, we just took it out a second ago, this pump doesn't have a quarter inch of oscillation so I think we're off to a better start here it's still not super quiet but it is what it is I guess this is a gear pump. I think the drive gear would be aligned here and the idler gear would be here and it also looks like it has some sort of check valve on the outlet.
I think that's what he's doing here, trying to keep fuel up. prepared ready to go back in I think to be able to go back in through the ground I'm going to put these caps back on, so this guy with our washer, which is our hinge bolt that goes there, this thing did like this to tighten it. so that's where we can put our half inch ratchet and pull up to tighten the belt as we tighten our tensioner. I don't know what you say, the adjustment bolt that keeps us here and the old Milwaukee probably should have done it.
We got ourselves a new belt, but we didn't think we needed to add some washers to get that guy started over there. I think I mixed up those bolts because that thick washer is on this one of the pivot and that's why the belts now hit it, if you look closely you can see what I did wrong. The pivot bolt doesn't want that thick washer because now the belt has run into the head of the bolt, so I had to grab the washers there because that thick washer should. I've been on the adjustment, the bolt without washers needs to be here on the second round, very good, both lines are connected now we are going to prime the fuel system, priming this is really no big deal, let us have this hand. pump into the housing here so it can be picked up from the fuel tank and then pushed through the transfer pump into the entire system and that's it, obviously we have to put all these guards back on, but I'm curious to see how it starts, i guess.
We need a little more preparation, let's try I'm a little curious, even with an immediate shutdown, which still doesn't do super fast, well, we'll let ourselves sit up at night to see what it does tomorrow. I feel like I can probably do it. It won't be any worse than that old bomb, but I guess you can always see how we did it right. It will be the next day. Begin to? Let's figure out how to disconnect. No. We sure didn't. It seems like we could still have a problem with either one. the return check valve if the injector cup is exchanging fuel and freezes.
I'm sure that's letting the fuel pressure go away, so there could be something there. We will continue investigating and we will resolve it well. Next step, let's try to locate it. where the antifreeze is getting into the fuel, that may have something to do with why we are losing fuel. Prime if antifreeze is replacing the fuel area, obviously it won't work very well with antifreeze, it's not good for any components of the fuel system, but it can also just cause a loss of fuel pressure, loss of fuel prime, so if they brought up a very good point, this machine actually has a fuel cooler, it's located in the second filter housing, you can see we have a connecting tube to grab the antifreeze.
I'm not sure if it comes from or supplies the oil cooler and then it's just bolted to the block and I'm guessing there is some kind of gasket or hole where it seals the coolant side to the block so there is some kind of heat. exchanger in this there is a possibility of contamination by fuel and antifreeze. I'm guessing this thing doesn't have injector cups, there's just some sort of copper seal ring there where the injectors go on the head. I want to check the parts book and see what I can. Look that up to check, but I trust what this guy says that there isn't a problem with the injector cup, that doesn't mean we couldn't have said a potential problem with the broken head, but it's probably rare.
I think probably the first step, let's extract this fuel. filter, let it sit to see if it drips antifreeze because I assume this is still the lowest point. This line is going up now the supply line is going down, but it goes up again here before we get to the pump that we already replaced, but if we pull. Take this fuel filter off, let's see if we can detect anything going wrong from there, and then just get more access. I'm going to remove this panel and you can see more pressure fog. Washed. I think I'm going to do it. to end up leaving as many covers as we can remove and do another round of pressure washing before they all go back on, it's 18° outside right now so I'm hoping it warms up.
I guess I'm curious if you see this fuel. Like it has antifreeze but I can tell you it has a lot of threads and it's out in the parts book you can't buy any parts for that filter housing it's all or nothing. I haven't set it up with our Volvo. dealer yet, since this is the only Volvo vehicle I have, I'm trying, but I found that part online somewhere for $430, doesn't seem like anything you wouldn't expect I guess, but I'd like to nail that down. This is the problem before we bought it, which is why we don't see antifreeze coming out of the secondary fuel filter, which is also the fuel cooler.
Seeing the green color zero dripping, I'm honestly wondering if there really is an antifreeze problem. The only thing I saw was that splash of green liquid at the bottom of the sediment container, I think we'll rule that out as a real problem for now. All fuel in the secondary filter and system looks perfectly clean, with no signs of mixing. What can I tell, so let's ignore that for now, the problem we're trying to track down is why this thing loses its peak so quickly while it's stopped, as far as I can tell, we've got our regulator up here, there's a solenoid on the top I think it mostly measures fuel to the high pressure pumps but I want to separate that out check what I think is a check valve on the bottom see what we can find this is the outlet side from the regulator, so This is the low pressure fuel regulator outlet that goes up here and joins the fuel coming out of the common rail.
The common rail pressure regulator is bolted into the back here, so basically the low pressure fuel goes back to the tank. The fuel from the transfer pump comes on the side of our regulator, this is where it comes in. I think this type of electric solenoid is more like an on-off shutoff, but I'm not 100% sure it could be regulating how much fuel can go down to the high level. pressure pumps here, so the fuel that goes into the high pressure pumps comes out through this banjo bolt where it flows here, these two high pressure pumps come out of the camshaft which flows into the rail and then the leftover fuel from our belt driven pump down here, it comes out, it appears to be some kind of plunger fuel regulator down there, where it comes out here and goes up, so I'm thinking about that plunger fuel pressure regulator that's at the bottom that it has to act as a check valve that prevents everything from draining into the system, okay she should get her out of here, that's the guy, let's figure out how to take it apart, not sure why we have the 4,000 pack of spacers if that's the length of the bulb they had, I don't know. so we take that and this fell, we can take the bottom off, you can also see down there, we have something there that looks like we can grab, we're going to take it all apart, I think I'm going to hit this. in the parts washer, remove all this dirt very quickly.
I'd rather keep this out of it as much as we can. This is all after both filters, so coming back together, we really want to keep this clean,Hopefully we won't have springs. here trying to get us looks like there might be something in that oh that's loose you guys heard that plunger is definitely moving there and I don't think I should or I should say I don't think. It should without a little bit of spring resistance if we grab something small here like a pickaxe, yeah, look, that's spring-loaded, so I'd say the spring in our pressure regulator is broken or the ball moved.
My only concern is just hammering that out. We're also going to set the low pressure fuel setting for both pumps, if it's off that could be messing up the whole system so we should probably get a new one of these guys that's actually set to the specs we know where we must be. Hopefully this is a separately available piece and we don't have to buy all of this, but I'll have to do a little checking. I see it's actually a Bosch part, like most fuel injection systems, let's see what we can do. I found it, but I feel pretty sure this is our issue with losing Prime, no reset.
Well, I did a quick Google search. Unfortunately, I don't know if we can buy just this part or if we have to buy the entire regulator. over $400 so that's not great, well I guess that's it for the night. I'm going to put the tools away and call it a day, my next plan of attack is tomorrow morning. I'm going to call Curtis in the diesel area to see if he has any ideas on whether this should be his check valve and see if he can supply me with preferably just the control arch itself or this entire piece, if we have to be Bosch I'm I'm sure you can get it to see if we can figure it out, so this morning I talked to our friend Curtis in the diesel area, he can give me this.
The whole part can get me just the insert and just the actuator so those are all good things but in talking to him neither of them are convinced this is actually the problem. I asked him do you think this is supposed to be the check valve or Its job is just to be a low pressure regulator and he feels like it's just the low pressure regulator so pretty much what that means is that that little leak is acceptable under normal circumstances, transfer pumps generate pressure that leaks past that valve. It's maintaining the pressure that the high pressure unit's pumps need to run, so that's all very well.
The question is where is the check valve if it is not supposed to function as a check valve. Where is the check valve? There is a cover with two bolts. behind it in the secondary fuel filter. I think there might be a possibility. There is also a chance it is in our hand pump unit on the primary filter. I find it iffy because it is normally on the suction side of the transfer pump. I can't find a check valve on the suction side of a pump because the only pressure you have to pass through that check valve is the atmosphere and we're already lifting it up to the pump, which is about a foot or two above from the fuel tank, so I doubt they want any flow restriction on the suction side of the transfer pump and we'll most likely find it on the outlet side of the transfer pump, which basically, if this guy doesn't It is, it has to be in high school. fuel filter, let's dig into that and see what we can find, what service manual would be useful, maybe I should spend the whole $40 on the downloadable PDF, either way we'll figure it out, so the question is what's behind rag number seven .
There is something at all. I wonder what the purpose of this cover is if there is no check valve here. The parts book doesn't show any check valves or at least anything you can reach behind it, but it looks like Volvo wants you. Buying more assemblies than small parts seems like a big nothing. I don't know what the purpose of that is, unless it's some kind of fuel deodorizer, maybe I don't know, but there's no check valve there, our good. Friend Curtis in the Diesel Service area hooked us up with a Bosch pressure regulator for basically the whole little assembly that's here.
I think it's very convenient to have those guys who are Bosch master dealers. I can look at it and send you some pictures of some different Boschs. The part numbers don't have to deal with Volvo at all and you get the part directly from a Bosch dealership without the Volvo marking, so this is our new low pressure fuel regulator. I'm going to change this guy. We have a couple of new copper banjo bolt joints. seal ring stuff, let's change it and see if it fixes it. We've had a couple of basically incorrect fuel Fu pressure alarms, it will say injection system failure and what that relates to is the fuel pressure on the low pressure side, so I think this is our culprit, come on to change it.
I should have brought it last night. I'm trying to keep the snow from melting, but it doesn't look like we're going to. It's already dripping, dripping, dripping, can we? take it from here there, it's just giving you a quick little comparison. Everything seems to be identical to me. I can tell you that you can't put this in after the fact. Okay, our new regulator is ready to go. Let's put it in and some new copper. The washer gasket stuff here too, screw it in and screw it in, okay, we're all hooked up again, prime the fuel, okay, we've got pressure, it feels better before, after we pull this apart.
I think I ruined something. that regulator was like turning this thing off and I think it was actually relieving the transfer pump so that was my main fear and I think why are we getting that over pressure alarm, turn it back on let's see how it does. I like it. she's working great now the next step is we have our crack here at the end of the cylinder. I want to polish this and solder it. This is not really a permanent solution, but more of a temporary solution as some snow is coming. I'm probably going to need this tomorrow, so to get there I'm just going to take out these screws holding this hose on, get it out of the way, we can get over here with the grinder, grind a nice chunk out and get there. rod welder and welder again I think I think in the future here probably once the snow season is over we will take out the cylinder we will install it on the lathe we will cut this weld and we will completely re-weld it I don't have / in 10 mm unit , but I have a 3/8 half inch drive close enough here, we removed the top clamp completely, screams, oh man I can't believe how much pressure is under it, but it's been here for a week without working.
I hope that looked good on camera, poor Volvo and milwa walkinator, let's get it cleaned up, so I think the critical thing is shaking hands with the dangerous air here is the weight of the coupler that was going down, which pushes the tilt cylinder up, which is all this link and all here, so I'm going to take the forklift, hold our quick coupler like that, this doesn't want to connect while we remove that hose, whoops, okay, let's try that again very carefully, such Maybe don't wash the windshield with that hose. Dr. coil whoopsie, everything is well lubricated now, hey, look, I'm going to throw a bag on top of this and on top of that line that was left to grind, okay, let's grind it.
I think that's enough, let's bring the finished Soldering Iron and soldering iron. I'm using 1/8 6011 because that's what I have set at 90 amps, let's see what we have, there's a lot of slag intrusion here. I would say it felt better to widen out a little more than that first root. pass, yeah our slag stayed on top that time too, just for test, this is pretty high up on the piston, probably somewhere here, but there's really no heat there in the barrel, so I'm not worried about damaging those stamps, probably 708 would be a better choice for this, but I definitely have nothing to write home about.
I can tell you, but it will work. Let's reconnect the hose. Let's do a quick little test. Moment of truth. Is it leaking worse than before? Do we approve it? I'm not too sure I'd like a 61 series hose, very convenient for larger things. Wow, sorry, since we have so much oil everywhere, it's a little hard to tell. I don't see anything leaking, although it is horrible. It's just that Weth seems right now, it seems like he's staying dry. I think we're going to call him a lot better than he was at least, so that's a win, today's crazy wild hair idea, let's see if we can fix this little Bend. the step and then on the other side this step is bent so if this works let's see if we can get to that side but my plan is to use the machine to straighten this out.
I have this chain hooked around the


arm. I'm going to Start lifting the


, we're going to wrap that chain around the tire and then we're going to hook it to this chain and then when we come back to the right, it should tighten there because we're on the other side of the joint and we're going to try to tighten this step, we're not going to drag the chain really through the tire just the amount of tension necessary because they will move together, let's see if this works, it will pull the fender a little, I don't think it's going to hurt anything, although pulling it I like it, take it, look, the back is a lightly inked, this side was being favored back and now it's not, so I think we're as good as we could get there. maybe keep a little tension on the chain and hit the rear with the sled well enough that this side is a little harder to ride because of the height, we can't easily go around the tire like we did on the left side of the machine.
See how we can hook this, something like that, but we really want to be as far away as we can to try to keep it from falling. See what happens. You see these steps squished all the way into this plastic quite tightly. Let's see what. she will look at it much better let's do a little service action on the Volvo so I went ahead and changed the primary secondary fuel filters and the oil filter and the oil is drained currently it says this takes 5.3 gallons well I did it . Put some in there trying to wash off.
Don't know. I guess we'll put in four gallons and see where we come from. I want to make sure the hose doesn't come off on us, so that's what I've prepared. Now I just have it stuck in the filling, but this is my homemade auto air diaphragm. I bought it at Northern Tool for not too much. We sell these pumps that work, so we get dealer prices for those air diaphragms. Here is a small bracket with a large cable grip and just a strand of a piece of stainless steel tubing that is dropped down to the drum.
There is a hole drilled here to be our vent so you don't have to remove the second vent from the drum. It's better than manually pumping a drum or using gallon jugs or something. Like we have about 16 quarts here we'll stop and take a look at the dipstick it's still a little short on capacity and of course we haven't filled the oil filter yet it looks like we're just a touch away above the full mark. I think that's a good place to start, let it fill the whole system, fill the oil filter and then we'll know where we're at, but before we do that, there's a rotary filter trans Mission you have to go down under the machine change that guy I want to do There is also a hydraulic return filter in the tank.
I want to change that. The only filter I have not received yet is the outside air filter. I have the internal filter, but I am going to wait until I have the large filter change for both. I already changed the cabin filters, so we have these two. I also bought these respirators or filters that are supposed to be changed. one is for the fuel tank and then there is another for the front and rear axle. I would also like to change the gear oil in the axles. I think it's more like a hyran. I have to look into that, but I want that oil to change the axles.
I don't think we should worry about the transmission right now, it probably wouldn't be a bad thing, but I should say I don't think it's going to, so let's change the transmission filter and then we'll shoot. luckily it's not too tight, I don't know if this is going to be a very quick change, so this is the hydraulic oil return contraption. This is placed in the tank. This filter slid over the top. The magnet here has this spring that holds it. I have this new Fleet Guard filter, but it doesn't have that little gasket that the other one had, which I don't see why you wouldn't want that seal in front of this plate, I guess if it loses something, it's probably some kind of bypass arrangement, but I guess I'm not sure if I tried to remove this one, no, that's the actual element, so it's like an element arrangement inside the old one. strainer unless you are supposed to change this one too, does it fit inside there?
No, yeah, you're just an all-in-one job. Interesting, we'll keep that screen in case we end up with this type of filter again CU, they're kind of different,these magnets are pretty nice to clean, sure there was a little bit of metal on them, but who knows how much time has passed and you'll get that slide, this again, keep it up, let me slide this. I went back to everything, I think it's the appropriate amount ready to go back into the tank, so this guy slides down into the hydraulic tank like this and you've got this handy dandy spring that just holds that O-ring and you've got this plate.
It's a bit of a weird deal here, really worn out gas struts everywhere, we got ourselves some fancy new air filters, now the ones that aren't really hateful, but I'd like to start refreshing all the filters on this thing, we got them all these little vents that they have. It hasn't been changed for a while, so I figured it might as well have been 5,000 hours. This is the fuel tank breather and then there is one for each axle. That's all for that side. The last breather was the front axle under this front panel. that guy installed that concludes our service, the only thing I really didn't do was change the fluids as far as the differentials, transmission and hydraulic oil, I'm not sure if I'm going to do that or not, it definitely wouldn't be. something bad, well, that concludes our Volvo mission for the moment.
We still have these panels that I haven't located or pulled the trigger on yet. I have to say I probably found one. I haven't found the other one, but... We're pretty good with all the services taken care of, that cylinder fixed our fuel problem, we're ready to roll, this charger will be good for its life here, I'm Sam with Scrappy Industries, thanks for be aware.

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