EVERYTHING you need to MAKE 500HP with a HONDA CIVIC on a BUDGET

What's going on? Everyone, welcome back to another episode today. I'll give you a brief overview of what you

need

to do to reliably

make

500 horsepower with a D16 engine. I mean, you can always give a Civic 30 pounds of boost and see. If you get 500 horsepower for maybe two or three passes, but this is going to be the cheapest way to do it on a

budget

and

make

it reliable, it's going to make some reliable power, so I'm going to go ahead and go over

everything

now that I have it. I was meaning to do this. A lot of you contacted me in the comments asking me for specific parts and things of that nature and I didn't, so I'll put

everything

in the description, all the parts. everything that's going to be in there, I want to leave it in there and I'm going to go ahead and give you an overview so let's go ahead and let's go into the garage and see what we've got so the first thing you

need

to do is You should be able to make 500 horsepower with these. blocks.

You've got a notch, so if you can tell here at the bottom of the block where the crank goes, you'll see where the cylinder is, it's the walls of the cylinder, you'll see. right here you have to polish this, the reason you have to polish this is because the rods that you're putting in there are going to be super fat anyway, fatter than the original rods, so it's very important to do that if you're trying to put put it all back together and try to start it, you'll notice right away that those pistons are going to keep going and head this way, now you can spend a little more money, you can get this speed factory without notched rods, but like I said before, this is a

budget

build so we want to make this as cheap as possible but i'm not going to knock those shafts, the speed factory shafts are good, they can handle the same amount of power as the eagle and scout shafts, you just have to do a little bit less work, so that's okay, but with this build we go with the rods we need a notch so you can see it's all polished.

Be sure to send your block to the machine shop if it is spun. or something like that, you want to make sure your engine is in perfect condition before you start. You know, generating all this power. I'm going to go ahead and go around the block so that many people know how to talk. A lot of crap about block guards and people talk a lot of crap about how to do a Def Con block. If you've seen my last video, it's one of my videos from a long time ago, when we did a Def Con build and it really is a disaster. turned on your water pump and we had some overheating issues with that build so I'm going to come back to this old block art and a lot of people have their feelings about it but this is a budget bill and it will be significant enough. to be able to handle this power, so you can really pick any block guard you want as long as it fits in there and it looks like you can even get a blog guard for like 30, you know, 30 or 50 bucks, so go ahead and get all you really need to do is just press a precedent, it's super super simple, how you can see this block was resurfaced for us, so this is a good block to use now, let's go ahead and go over some of our internals.

Okay, so let's start with the crank. This is why it is a crank. One reason I recommend using the y8 crank is because you will see there is only one oil port here, just one, the z6 actually has two, which will reduce the oil pressure. You definitely don't want the turbo version so I recommend going with the y8 Frank. You can go to your local junkyard and pick one up. Make sure it is balanced if it needs to be polished. Go ahead and do it too. It will definitely save you. a lot of time and money, you know you want to make sure this thing works for a while, so with your crank make sure you follow the why it's definitely going to be the best choice of cranks, we'll take care of this, you know, for a single family.

You can always go with an aftermarket crank, but again, you'll be spending a lot more money, so that's what you need to do with the crank for this 500 horsepower bill. Well, here are our pistons and our connecting rods. These are the Scot Rods and you can see that they are used. I bought this block off the shelf and a guy spun a rod bearing so I went ahead and picked them up and replaced the pistons. These are just your simple YCP Vitara pistons. I moved on and on. with the 0.5 above you can use the standard diameter, it doesn't really matter.

I just wanted to take a little bit off because there were some imperfections on the block so I dulled it a little bit more for us so pick the right one. point or the 0.5s and/or standard doesn't really matter, it won't weaken it that much. You can also say that I got these size changes because it's funny that the rod bearing wants to make sure it has a good surface there, so this is here. It's a scat rod, this will be the cheapest way to do it. I think if you buy them new, I think they're around $200 for the rods and these pistons also come with the rings, you can see all the new pistons. rings, those cost about a hundred dollars.

I think I paid a hundred and six dollars with shipping and everything, so you're looking at about three hundred dollars for your pistons and your connecting rods, so that's pretty good and you can say I wish I had them. an original rod to show you the size difference between these and the original ones but these weigh a lot thicker so it would be super nice super durable for the bill so that's it for the interior so let's go ahead and move on to our oil. pump you can see here, this is literally just an original oil pump, you can't tell it from the outside, but inside it's fixed.

You can go ahead and buy one of the racing oil pumps, but they'll pretty much do what I do. I've already done it. There is another video. I'll go ahead and put it here. Now you can take a look at it. That's the video of me adjusting the oil pump. I literally take this part out of here with an Allen wrench. and you get a washer, you can make yourself a washer, put it inside, it makes the spring stiffer, that way it will increase the oil pressure and there are other things you can do as well, you can move this right here, move this out and do breathe a little more, flow a little more with oil and you want to make sure you get another shrimp out if you do that because if you open this up a little bit, that will also reduce the oil pressure so I want to make sure you have good oil pressure.

The first thing with turbos is that you want to make sure you have oil pressure. Oil pressure is your best friend, so always be sure to check your oil. I always recommend having an oil gauge in your car as well so you can always take a look at it, you don't want to rely on that little flashing light in the corner because once you get there that's when it's below five psi, so the car oil light coming on is anything that is less than five psi and if you are a turbo and you have less than five psi you are Sol at that point so make sure you get an oil gauge that is also something that I highly recommend that you get and you need your invoice so let's go ahead and move on to the headstock so you can see here these are the original retainers literally the original retainers that came with the headstock the only thing that's changed here are these valve springs, the original.

Valve springs cannot handle the RPM you will want to spin at and the amount of power you are trying to make so all you need to do is upgrade these valve springs which you can see on the yellow line on these are springs of Bryant Crower valve, so you can literally pick them up. I think they cost about a hundred dollars for the valve springs and it just uses the stock retainers from what I've been reading and what people have been saying is better. to go with the stock retainers on the individual cams, let's just say they are having a lot of problems with the titanium ones, so I took that advice and went with these as well, so save some money.

I think it costs around 80 dollars. or more for retainers, so it's pretty easy, this one has been ported too. You can see here that you don't have to carry it, but you know it doesn't hurt once you have it all separated. I mean, I would recommend doing it. I just poured it so you can breathe a little more and get the surface of your head back. You want to have a smooth surface on that engine, so it's very, very important, okay, and the last thing you need is a cam here, get an adjustable one. camera equipment, you definitely don't have to use the AEM.

Turns out I got a good deal on this. I found it online so I bought it. You can literally use the one from eBay, just make sure you get an adjustable one. This way you can alter your timing because that's going to be important, especially with a turbo build. Now the only things not here that I have ordered and just haven't gotten a nail on are the ARP head bolts. I will also place them. the description you definitely need them one hundred percent so don't try to use the stock head bolts because literally once you start making some power around 20 pounds of boost that head or sometimes even less boost , the head will simply start to rise. up so you start burning off some coolant, so definitely definitely make sure you treat the head bolts.

I'm going to use a filler Pro head gasket here. I'm not going to use any cosmetic head gaskets. I have seen many people. I have a lot of success with them and will also save a good amount of money for construction. The only thing I would say is that in testing, many people have had great success using the fel-pro head gases. instead of using a cosmetic head gasket so just make sure the engine is torqued down, perfect to spec, you don't want to overtighten, you don't want to loosen too much either, make sure you look at your specs I know the cylinder head bolts AARP they are going to be a little tighter than the originals, the original heads to the head bolts that you put on, just make sure you follow the manufacturer's specifications, don't try to get off on your own and you know. tighten it a little or loosen it a little just make sure it's right, you know exactly where they say so that's it for the engine, then you can buy a turbo kit, the GT 3282, which is super cheap, you can get them. online or like a hundred dollars and it will be a big enough turbo to make a good amount of power or you can get a smaller turbo, you know, the normal ones you get with a turbo kit from eBay.

I'll probably use it for a while. a little bit and I'll just send it to how much moon sandwich power I can get out of it or how much boost like a push, but definitely the GT 3282 is what I would highly recommend that way you just get a turbo, crank it up and get like There's a lot of life out of this as you can start to, you know, make people angry, people really hate these single cameras to death, so when you hit someone with a single camera, they get really angry and I like to make them People get angry, obviously, I drive. a Honda and people hate Hondas, they hate us a lot in the community, but honestly, that's what I feed off of.

I think the reason I still like Hondas is because people literally hate them so much and it's so much fun and they're Honestly, it's so cheap to put together that there's nothing better than putting together a build for literally a sub-three car. thousand dollars and walking in these Kars from 40 to 50 thousand dollars. It literally annoys people when you go to the races and tell them anything about your car. don't say anything and they're sitting here saying oh I I I you got this I got I got this just stay quiet keep your head down you line up and you go with them so that's the whole point of this Bill it's literally just to piss people off. and do it for very cheap, so many of you don't have a lot of money to spend on a car, you have your own life to deal with and you have other things to do. pay for us so this is a cheap way to have a lot of fun and piss off a lot of people so thank you all for watching and go ahead and subscribe.

I'll see you next time. Thank you.