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Engine Rebuild Part 1: Short Block. 1969 Porsche 911T. The Canary Files.

Feb 27, 2020
so it's time for me to put the motor case on the motor mount and to do that, obviously I'm going to mount the right side of the case while we look at the

engine

from the other side, the right side of the case on the

engine

mount. engine and then we will do this left side when I have all the internal components on the mountain. I'm going to use the stock mounting holes here for the yoke, my car's cam should all be the same, but I think two bolts. these are seventy-nine millimeters, I'm not sure, but the m10 1.5 thread has two bolts here, one and two, then the cam on my car was a

short

bull jack that went into the top corner of the transmission.
engine rebuild part 1 short block 1969 porsche 911t the canary files
I'm not sure I like that bull, it's a little

short

, it doesn't stay in the air and I'm trying to mount a transmission on the back of the engine. It's a little short. I like the fact that the robusto uses all of these threads to hold a study in itself on the motors, so I could swap out this bolt for a real bolt, then of course there is the long bolt that goes here for this motor starter, but I will use the jerky pitch to hold everything on the motor yoke. Okay, I'll talk to those nuts.
engine rebuild part 1 short block 1969 porsche 911t the canary files

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engine rebuild part 1 short block 1969 porsche 911t the canary files...

I have to hold it there, but there it is, on the engine mount. Great, let's get everything perfectly clean and then I can start putting some things in, so before we do anything, let's review what Ali did with the case to renew it for the

rebuild

. I have the work order here so we'll go over what they did and the number one and most expensive thing here is the alignment ball goes back to standard which basically means they put the case together and talked to it. down and then they put a big drill bit over here and actually drilled, took out a crank that sits so that at any tilt of the wall on the equipment and the box itself, when you take it a

part

or use it, it pulls out so that perfectly straight again, so They made that 725, they made the timing suits on the head, so if the head skirts go, they put these little steel inserts around the piston holes so the piston pins The head does not come out of the magnesium case, not the steel.
engine rebuild part 1 short block 1969 porsche 911t the canary files
I didn't make the magnesium case much stronger so they did it here for the head bolts and they also did it for the trans mount and they welded and on number three so that's on the other side of the case and so when our head bolts between here, they're welded on the back here to make it a little bit deeper and longer so all the oil galleys in the engine clean them out and then put all the new plugs on the end. of Z, some kind of brass bones and then soldering another thing that needed to be cleaned.
engine rebuild part 1 short block 1969 porsche 911t the canary files
I had a crack here and they fixed it for me the crack wasn't there when I sent it in it cracked and they were trying to put the plug in but they fixed it so that's great but they rebuilt the cranks the bushings where the weather sits and they perfected the crank itself, the weather for the crank, the magnaflux, the crank, they made the oil plugs in the crank and then they also micro polished the crank so that the cranks have gone through all the rods and case halves too and that cost me two thousand two hundred and twenty-two dollars with tax and shipping, so that's quite a bit of cash.
The only other thing I didn't ask them to do, and now that I upgraded to a Lena SC oil pump, a foreign oil pump, was the oil bypass modification, so I took the case to Ed J, my machine shop local here and I asked if I could do the oil, buy a pass on the case and now it's only 85 dollars so now I'm going to make sure everything is clean, check everything, clean everything, they clean everything except their hot tank, they submerge it like Well, to clean it up, we're going to start adding the bearings and putting some of this stuff back in there, we're going to put it back together, so the first step in the assembly process is the crank rods.
Now I have everything I need to do. This process was presented to the bank. I have it here on my clean tray so I can keep everything spotless. No contaminants can enter. Everything is super clean at Ollie's. It looks great, but I'm going to clean everything again. a little bit of alcohol and I'll buy some low lint wipes and then once I've done that I'll attach the flywheel to the end of the crank and set it up vertically to work but I'll use the new flywheel bolts. and just don't lower them just hand tighten them just because it's a one time deal just because they increase the value so once I have the crank upright and put my flywheel on and everything is clean I'll install new bearings.
I need a plastic gauge to measure the tolerances of each rod on each journal. I'm going to use the old rod bolts to do that. Check to get these down to 36 foot pounds, take them a

part

, measure the plastic edge extension and see if it's within tolerance and then I'm off. To use these ARP rod bolts that I have now, I want to talk to 50 foot pounds or the best way to measure it is its stretch value, the stretch value of the bolts and I bought the aap stretch gauge and the stretch value is the zero point zero. nine two point zero zero nine five okay so these bolts are loose suck them and tighten them on each side with a stretch gauge and I'll measure the side that's facing me and your rods facing me how much on this side and we'll set up our stretch meter that's there to be zero, okay, and I'll reduce it, okay, so that side is measured at zero.
I'm going to measure this side and I'm going to place these little indicators here, so now that one is at zero, at 25 is your star position on this side, so 25 plus no point nine five is 120, so here it is 120, so that's perfect, so that's the stretched amount and not two, not ninety-five, that's the other stretched amount, okay, so I'm prepared and set my torque wrench to ten foot-pounds, there goes ten on that side, okay, now I'm at 20 foot-pounds and I'm going to go back to the other side and I'm going to go down. I heard it go to 20 20 okay, let's set this to 30, you get the idea, forty on this side, okay, so let's measure the stretch on this side, so in front of me, my stretch meter is at zero point zero eight on this side, let's measure this side and here it is approximately to say maybe a little bit higher on that side forty-eight point nine gives me so you can see here I am right on that nine five a perfect forty-eight point nine that I'm going to remeasure and that's me right at the money I'm happy with.
That seems to be the way to do it for me anyway. Now I am very confident that these two bolts are tightened and stretched correctly and I will move on to the next one, so the first job is to clean the housing. These all did a great job, they are absolutely spotless, but I will be cleaning them again and again, they have been here for quite a while, so I will be cleaning them with a good old brick cleaner. I'm going to use this one. Isopropyl alcohol comes in a spray bottle from your local pharmacy nothing is these Kym tech lint free wipes to clean the entire surface of the bearing journals it's like the inside of the box on both halves and then we'll start putting some internal parts back on So I was getting ready to install the oil pump and countershaft and thought I'd read Winds' book one more time and it says here that if you have an earlier '65 to '69 case then the countershaft mounts directly in the middle . from the case now I installed a bearing here and it fit perfectly so I went back and looked at the pictures of when I took the motor apart and noticed there was no bearing here it was going right on the surface of the case. in the middle of the case, the intermediate shaft and there was no notch, now there is a notch, so obviously all of these have revised and modified the case to accept an intermediate shaft bearing.
I'm going to call them and ask them about this modification just to make sure I'm absolutely sure that's exactly what happened, but I'm going to go ahead and install the screen and the bearings and everything else I can without having to install the oil pump and shaft. intermediate on the tongue and knot. I've made the mark where the pin lines up with the box and now I'm just going to add a little bit of this T curl around the outside edge so I can get a good seal. I'm going to put the stamp on mm-hmm just hit it with my mallet, try to get it right, then this stamp goes around the outside edge.
I'm going to give it a little bit of oil and hope I don't break it, the only one I have around this outer edge and in this valley here and it's ready to go back to the crankshaft and install it in that case, before I remove the crankshaft from the flywheel, I'll clean the journals one more time and then I will prepare the crankshaft for installation in the case. Now I'm going to add an assembly loop to the crank journals. I have placed the number of rods from the top two, four and six and the vertical position and this is how it will fall on the crank.
I'm going to turn the nose so that the line is right in front and the idea is that I'm going to hold it by these rods that one is going to want to lower, hold it by the rods and I'm going to try to get it there keeping these two even over those three somehow way and up hold it with a three move it let the three fall I don't have any help here today but I hope this works we'll get it in there let's shift this up to the top position I just applied a drop of Loctite 574 for the rear seal and the nose pad seal, okay, I'll drop Craig very carefully, okay, hit that nose pad, she'll erase that look, taking a little there.
Wow, that's it there and the rear seal is seated and looks good, so I always called this morning and confirmed with them that they did indeed purchase the intermediate shaft bearing, do that modification, do that and of all these first cases. They just said: put a standard intermediate shaft bearing in there and you're good to go, so go with everything laid out for the intermediate shaft. The oil pump timing chains are fine, so I'll go ahead and clean the timing chains. I just sprayed them. with a little bit of brake cleaner and I'm going to clean them to make sure it goes, but clean them before you install them.
The find of the century on eBay. My two hundred dollar oil pump, my rapeseed oil pump, which is in absolutely perfect condition, is clean. up and ready to go and I'll put it all together and then install it into the axle housing. Well, I'll try to do it. There you pass a chain and another that goes through the side of the box and then you place this well. slewing arm make sure it's good Chand great will make sure this seal on the back is seated correctly and all the bearing surfaces are done correctly the teeth are in mesh that's good so it's in that's great , I'll check that seal.
I bought one of these borescope cameras and it connects directly to the phone and I can use it to check if the seal is placed correctly. I'll press the record button here and then place the camera. in or twist it a little bit and yeah there it looks like it's seated perfectly look at that great very good I'm sure I can turn it down and it's seated perfectly so I bought new tab washers that go on the pump and you bent the tabs down one side and up. I didn't want to reuse the old ones, they are in pretty bad shape and one of the tabs actually broke when I was trying to remove it and I'm worried. about metal fatigue and one of these tabs is actually breaking, weakening and breaking on the engine and going around the engine, it would destroy it or cause some damage, that's for sure.
I know people don't really like to use here. These tab washes and actually use a wave washer and Loctite instead, but I'm going to use the way of washers that are good for the 200,000 mile decision that will do another great job at 200,000 miles, so I'm going to use the blue lock. However, sure, I'm going to put it here and lock it at eighteen point four foot pounds. Today I had help in the garage. Hi, I'm Logan's nephew. I would almost say yes, yes, okay, we are. I'm going to assemble the case house, the first thing is that the zip ties have to go through this hole, go, I got it, no, no, that goes there, yeah, oh, look the rods bounce pretty well, now I'm going to, We are ok. with us now we're just going to pull you do it right rights are good on the bubble screen that looks good let's put it to the side oh yeah now take a look at this it looks good and we'll start passing balls a couple of nuts just to keep it secure, all the O-rings around that side and then we'll use Vaseline.
Okay, we're going to damage the O-rings on this side and use Vaseline, as told by a prominent engine builder. one two three four five six seven eight nine ten eleven we are here this one okay let's go for twenty five point eight are you ready? yeah, okay number two, so that's which finito this one, are you sure about that one there Oh, cuz the song is compensated, it's very confusing, okay, go count, okay, hey, three, okay, okay, everyone Levens they love that's the second loss yeah that means X mine yeah you want it great and then twelve thirteen okay same piece of thru bolt classes.
Ok, I'll make it work, let's put the flat side facingdown and around up, okay, careful, don't fall into the engine, okay, they do, we're in big trouble, okay, I'm going to tighten the outside nuts. at eighteen point four foot pounds install the thermostat. I have a new O-ring from my engine gasket kit, make sure it fits correctly and then drill holes in the bottom here on a top left, so we're going to get the orientation right, the bottom one on this side, up, one on that side, great, we'll adjust it down, so with the oil bypass modification done on the case and them for the SC oil pump, I'm going to To use these new pressure relief pistons, these are the type ladder, they don't have holes like the old ones and I upgraded to the new cap with a 17 millimeter socket for easier installation.
Here is a new piston for the bottom, it has the longest one. spring, I'm going to put the long side and it goes under the chain and then we place the first bolt through the wall and this one doesn't have a little catch, a little tab that catches on the actual bolt like a mark originated. it clips to sit correctly and slide the chaincase on so I installed all the head bolts and it worked pretty well and they all have the Loctite 271 holding them in place and I'll talk to your investor Kurt, I'll check it out. the platform to see how level it is, the more level the platform is, the better the installation of the top corner goal will be and that is perfect.
I feel like I don't see any gaps between anything, that's great, so then the studs again, they all went in perfectly at 135 millimeters, so there's a cup and a millimeter wrap, maybe one believes in a couple of them, but there isn't, There's none, there's more than 135 millimeters and I think that's the point, so there's two on that side, maybe 134, but yeah, that's it. Well, great, so I went ahead and attached the flywheel to the crank. I just hand-tightened the bolts from time to time, put my little tool in here and locked the steering wheel against the case so everything is locked in place.
I turn and then I have this 12 mil 12 point socket that I bought just to tighten the steering wheel bolts and it's too long, it actually touches the yoke, it's just a small gap. I can't put my key in there, it seems crazy, this is it. long and so instead of ordering another one or I don't want to take the motor off the motor mount and put it back on just to tighten them both look crazy. I bought a t-55 bit, it only has six points instead of twelve, but I could try an old bolt here and tighten it up and see how it goes.
Now I can install the crankshaft pulley with the pin in the hole, the lock washer and the nut. I'm going to go ahead and talk about this 259 feet. pounds so the t-55 tool didn't do a great job of reducing these bolts so I just put a piece of tape here to remind me that when I take the engine off the mount to change these bolts The new ones I will add Loctite on that moment and then I will talk them with the correct tool until I reach one hundred and ten foot-pounds. I should try it. I mean, this is exciting, being able to, oh yeah, look at that twist.
Engine turned off and feels good, everything is working as it should, fantastic, excellent, well I'm very happy, so with all that, we have a short

block

and it took us a couple of weeks to get here with all the measurements, cleaning and then on assembly I work a couple of hours in the afternoon and a few more hours on the weekend, but we get here, you know, taking my time to learn as I go, the next phase will be to build the top end and I have some new 81 millimeter high compression pistons and bought the cylinders and with the case covered I need to calculate the distance between the new piston and the head and how to measure it, I'm not quite sure exactly how to do it correctly. so if you have any ideas, leave a comment below.
I would like to congratulate Mike M. You should check out his YouTube channel. He is restoring a 67 or 68 911 and the quality of the work is incredible. The guy who really knows what. He's doing it, I'm learning as I go, but he really knows what he's doing, so you should check him out. I'm learning a lot watching him work. I'll leave a link in the description so you can find his channel anyway, so I'll continue building this engine and hope to finish it in the next few weeks.

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