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Double Wedding ring Quilt - THE EASY WAY!!!

Jun 04, 2021
Hi, I'm Donna Jordan from Jordan Fabrics and today I'm going to show you how to make a Double Wedding Ring Quilt. I have made a couple of

double

wedding

ring

s before this one which is about 25 years old. You may recognize some of them. These old Concord Country floral prints and it's really a fun pattern to make. It has nice circles. You see some little diamonds here and it's very satisfying to sew them on. Here's the thing about the

double

wedding

ring

. It has these beautiful curved edges, but unless you're going to make it small and give it a flipped finish like I did here.
double wedding ring quilt   the easy way
You're going to have to put a curved trim around it. You also can't make the

quilt

bigger by adding borders unless you want to do a lot of complex curved stitching to achieve those borders, but I found a template set that comes with some nice instructions and this will allow us to make a double wedding ring

quilt

with a curved border or a that has square edges so that we can put several blocks. Together and make a rectangular quilt we can add borders and then we can do a traditional binding on it and I'm so excited to get started on this.
double wedding ring quilt   the easy way

More Interesting Facts About,

double wedding ring quilt the easy way...

What we need to make this quilt is a background. I have this nice light green color here. You need two decorative fabrics that will end in the diamond area and then you need something for your bows, whether it's a fabric like I've used here or a variety of fabrics Now, if you're making your bows in one fabric, I'm going to need to cut them out. of yards, but if you're making them with mosaics like I have here, you can use a jelly roll or lovely squares or a layer cake and that's what I'm going to use now.
double wedding ring quilt   the easy way
I'm going to make 12 of these blocks, so I'm pretty much going to use an entire layer of cake to make the mosaic part here. If you are using a different precut or yardage, you will need a different quantity. I'll need different numbers to cut them out so I wrote up a little size chart and you can get it by clicking the link right below the video as well as the layer cake for the size I'm making. We will need a quarter yard of two different decorative fabrics and two and a half yards of background. The first thing we're going to do is take these layer cake squares and we're going to cut them into two and a half inches wide. strips and that's why it's so

easy

to do this if you're using a jelly roll or you're using charm scores because the jelly roll is two and a half inches wide and the charms are five inches wide so you can just cut them out . half so I'm going to take four or five squares at a time because it's

easy

for me to cut them and I'm just going to cut them into two and a half inch widths once you've cut the strips we're ready to go.
double wedding ring quilt   the easy way
Our Templates Now you need templates to make a double wedding ring quilt. The templates I used on my last two quilts were like this and they work great, but you can only make one quilt with curved edges in this style. Also, there are only a couple of brands here. to help you join your curves when you sew them, so you need a lot of hope. I call it the wait and sew method to get these curves to match. It works, but with this style there are many brands that we are going to make. to put the fabric on and that's going to help us get the skill of putting these curves together a little bit quicker so I'm going to take these strips and I'm going to cut them with this wedge shaped template and I'm going to put them back together and these are going to be used in our bow now, if you're making your bow out of fabric, you can go ahead and cut it out using this, but when you're piecing it together, you're going to take this template and just cut out. all these strips like this, so you cut in one direction and now you turn the template over and it will fit right on that edge there and then you cut in the other direction and you'll notice because I have these jagged edges here The template doesn't fit perfectly there, there's a little bit more there and that's okay because we're actually going to sew them all together, then we're going to put this template on it and we're going to cut off all the excess, so don't do that.
Worry right now if they don't look like they're cut perfectly once you've cut them, head to the sewing machine, pick out six different fabrics, it doesn't really matter what goes, just try to get six different ones. I have this cute, colorful group of boutiques, so it's pretty easy for me to get six different ones. Let's get an orange. We will put the thick part here so that when we sew them it forms a nice, soft arch. so just put these right sides together and sew them together with a quarter inch seam, open it up and then add the next piece, keep doing this until we have a nice arc, now the seam allowances we basically want to press them all towards the center so we can press this one towards the center this towards the center so I can go this way that one is towards the center that one towards the center this one from the middle it doesn't matter which direction you go either way it's okay once you have them all sewn into arcs you'll want to iron them so I like to spread them on the table and give them a little steam.
Now we're going to use our arch template on these pieces that we made now. To make the following cuts you need to be able to move the cutting mat because we are going to be cutting in all different directions so if you have a small mat that is perfect, mine are all large so I will use this one. Actually, this is a rotating mat. You don't have to have this style, but it's pretty handy if you have one of these, so place your piece there and then we'll place the template here and I'm just going to move it so that where these marks go, they're not going to be in a seam allowance for the most of the cutting I do.
I use this 60 millimeter alpha cutter, but it's a little too big when making curves. I'm going to use a 45 millimeter cutter here and many of you probably use that for most of your cuts, but it's actually easier to make curves with a smaller cutter, so I'm going to start with this long curve here, so I'm just going to hold it down firmly, go around the edge and then I can rotate it and you'll see there's a little bit that we're going to cut here, we're going to cut that corner a little bit. then we'll do this edge and each corner will be cut a little bit there and we'll go all the way around and every time I need to turn that mat, I'm going to turn it and keep making cuts until it's all done.
That's it and you might be wondering if it's hard to keep the stencil from moving and it can be, but I have some little sandpaper patches here and the stencil set comes with this sticky sandpaper so you can cut out the tear a little bit. Remove the backing and then stick it on your insoles to prevent it from moving. If you don't like the feel of that, you can always flip it over and use it from this side where there's no sandpaper, so it's nice to be able to use it. Anyway, now we want to make some little indentations or marks where all these indentations are on the stencil, so you have a couple of options: you can hold down the stencil and make a little pencil mark or a little chalk mark and then you can move the template and cut them out or you can try this method if you have small scissors you can hold the template and I just slide right under the fabric and make a little cut, this is a little harder for me that's why I like to make marks and then going back and making just a small cut see this one here it's about an eighth of an inch cut see this one here you don't want to cut any further than where your seam allowance will be and these cuts these are for marking you don't need scissors to sew correctly , so if you just want to make pencil or chalk marks throughout the entire process, you can do that too.
It's a matter of personal preference now, if you want to save some time, score one of your bows, but stack three or four. I have four stacked here and then I can cut all those layers at once and again, the rotating mat will help me and I'm making the cuts again about an eighth of an inch. so it won't exceed my seam allowance. Now we're going to use our next two templates and we're going to cut out some background pieces with these guys, so the first step is to cut eight inch squares out of every eight inch square that we have.
We're going to place one of these in a middle corner and then we're going to place another one of these in the far corner, so what we're going to do is line up these two edges on the sides that I've already cut and I'm cutting four layers here , if you don't feel comfortable cutting four layers, you can cut less and I'm going to start here, go all the way there, you can go right from the edge there and I'm going to slide that out of the way and I'm going to cut these little ones and I think it's easier mark this right now, so again, if you're going to use a pencil, you can draw all of them. those lines or if you want to use scissors and make small cuts, you can make those cuts right now, even before you move the template.
Now we can take this template and move it here, line it up with these two cut edges and I can cut this one again. I'm going to just slide this part out of the way and even out these little ends and again, if you want to use scissors right now to cut, you can just hold the template down and slide it right under just a little bit and make a little cut now to cut this middle piece anywhere, okay and we'll just go all the way around and now you can see how useful it is to be able to turn this around so you can get the little Incline there and keep cutting so that the whole bottom is cut out and everything marked and the last The piece we need to cut is the corner squares, which are these two accents here, so the easiest way to cut them is to first cut two and a half inch squares.
Once they're squared, we'll take our last template piece and line up this corner with those two cut edges there, then we'll need to cut these sides here, so let's get this little corner. piece, go around this soft curve, that little one and that little corner there and then we're going to mark it again so I have a silver pencil here that works pretty well and then I'm going to cut through there little cut there little cut there now we have everything What we need to start sewing the two pieces together we're going to start with one of the corners and one of these arches, this is how they're going to fit together, but to sew With the front sides right together, we need to turn them around like this so you can see that the Curves go in opposite directions.
Now, first things first, this cut edge is going to go along this cut edge, so to determine where you start, we Re lo, I'm lining up these two edges and I see where that little point is on the arc, that point of there it should meet the edge, so I have to slide it up a little bit more and now I'm going to stitch a quarter of an inch, which is right where that point is, so I'm going to slide this into the machine and just take a couple of stitches, so we're going to keep sewing and try to have Both raw edges are lined up right where we're sewing, that means as we go along, this one is going to have to move like this and this top piece is going to have to move like this now that I have marks. and cut right now and that's so you can see it easier on the film, so I'm just going to curve it a little bit, take a few more stitches and then I'm going to keep curving and stitching a little bit and you can see if these marks line up, it makes it very easy to sew this curve.
Now here my top mark is a little bit above this mark here and that just means I need to pull on the top a little bit as I sew so my marks line up. up so I can see down where they're coming from and I'm going to slide the bottom up, slide the top up and you can keep adjusting as you go, it's actually really easy, I thought this was going to be a lot harder than It is and I'm going to show it to you a couple of times so you can see how easy it is.
I haven't sewn many of them. I have sewn about 10 practice stitches, so I have already learned how to do it. but it's actually a lot easier than I thought it was going to be now, when we open this up, the seams will go towards the bottom and I'm not really going to press it with my fingers because I don't want to stretch it. out of shape, but I'm going to feel it a little bit, but look at that nice curve there, so let me show you one more time, remember we're lining up these two cut edges and then we make that little point. aim right in the middle of the bottom and then make a couple of stitches.
Now the easiest way to make these curves work is to hold the top fabric in your right hand and the bottom fabric in your left hand and then as you sew, I'm going to pull like this, so just take a couple of stitches and then again I pull the bottom to the left and the top to the right so that just a little of the edges line up and you only sew a few points at a time. This time I'm not even lifting the presser foot, I'm just sewing and sewing, so if it looks like your marks aren't going to line up, you can pull the top part a little bit or you can pull the bottom part a little bit because we're working with curves here and they have a little flexibility as we approach the end.
I'll show you where we're supposed to end up again with the pointy part right in the middle of the bottom, so it's a little bit hard to see, but when you sew it like this with the point right in the middle, when you open it up we end up with this one. A nice smooth curve, once you've finished eight of these,then we'll be ready to move on to the next step, which is these pieces here. Now we're going to put them on four of these units, so let's take the top one here and this is going to fit right here so we're going to put the right sides together and I think I'm going to turn it over so I can see my marks a little better because this batik doesn't really have a right or wrong side and again we want to line up these two cut edges, so if we roll them all the way up, they'll match up and we'll start sewing with our seam a quarter inch away from this cut edge.
Again take a couple of points and then you're going to have to curve it like you did last time, so I'm holding the top with my right hand, the bottom with my left hand and I'm going to do it gently. pull them, the top one to the right, the bottom one to the left and just run it all the way around the curve and keep matching your little indentations a few points at a time, curving as you go and now that end is going to match . the end there, when we remove this and open it up, now you can see we have a nice curve there, so let me show you where these ends meet again, this is where I started and When you open it up, this should be a long line.
Now mine is not perfect. I have a little bit more green there, but it's pretty close and then at the end where I sewed the end back on, you see how those lines. up there and again when you open it it should form a long line again. Mine isn't perfect yet, but it's pretty close now that we have those four completed, we need to get back to these guys because they need something put into each one. they end up to be big enough to sew here, so we'll take one of these green pieces and we'll sew it here so that the 90 degree corner that will be the corner of our block is this. curved side we need to sew here so I have little slits on both sides here and I'm going to line up this edge here this is where I'm going to sew so there's a little cut left in the corner there and that's just so we don't have as much volume when we put our blocks together so I'm lining up the cut edges here and using a quarter inch seam again just take a couple of stitches and curve as you go and I'll show you what it looks like so this piece is curved So.
I'm exaggerating and I'm going to press this seam allowance. This you can press with your fingers a little towards the green. Now we are going to put a purple one. one on the other end again, the 90 degree corner goes over here and this is going to go right sides together here and I think just to show you what I'm doing, I'm going to draw on this if I make a quarter inch seam. that's where I'm sewing and at this end I'm not going to draw the whole thing that's where I'm sewing so lining up these edges and having that line on the edge of this piece, that's where you start sewing we have a little corner of this purple , if I can lift it up, it goes over this corner and it's okay, it just helps if you have an idea of ​​what I'm trying to sew here, what I'm trying to match up and now we're just curving it over here and my white mark where I drew the chalk it should be on the edge of this background when you get to the end and that way when it's done this should form a long line now mine isn't perfect.
I've got a little bit more green here, but this side is just perfect and that's where we're heading into a long curve now, once you've got those four done, you might want to take these and iron them. I tried ironing right now and I tried to wait. and iron at the end and I prefer to weigh an iron at the end, but you may want to iron, you can do it either way, just be careful when ironing so you don't distort your block. You want to keep this square, I notice mine. it tends to want to curve here and that's just because you have curves here, so you want to be careful to keep it flat and not stretch anything or distort it as you iron.
Now we can take one of each of these. and we're going to sew this last seam right sides together here and remember this side is going to line up with this side, so we're going to even out those edges and then we're going to move this up to where we're going. to start, which is a quarter of an inch from this edge, which is right there, is where those two pieces meet there, so I'm going to sew a couple of stitches and then pause and continue turning and joining everything together and again I found it. It's easier to hold the top and my right hand, the bottom with my left hand and keep curving as you go and when you find those little cutouts, line them up as best you can, you can sew all the way to the edge here, at some point it will feel like you just need to pull that and bend it a little bit and it's okay, that way you can see what you're doing a little better.
It helps a lot to have those marks or cuts. Now let's see how close we came to getting everything to match. up, oh this one is pretty good, I have it almost perfect there, let's go down to this end, this one is not so good, it should come in the same place, I don't think I'm going to accept it. Take it out and re-stitch it because I'm not that picky but you can do it, if you really don't like that combination you can take it out and put it in place a little better. Now this is where that intersection is that I didn't have outlined. all right, you can peel it again here and make sure the seams where they crisscross a quarter inch apart line up and that will help make it look better than the first one there.
I just notice that I get better as I go. check each one as you go, see how aligned everything is and then you can make small adjustments now that we have four of these blocks ready, we're ready to put our big block together, so here's what it's going to look like. all we have to do is sew straight seams now, so I'm going to put that on top of there and that on top of there, line it up and this looks really easy after we sew all those curves and I'm going to bring these two guys in, now I'm going to press this seam allowance to the right and you can press it with your fingers and this seam allowance to the left and now we can sew this last seam here and it's pretty thick where all these seams come from. together here, but if you go slow and careful, you can make everything match up and I'm going to press with my finger to the side, you may want to press this seam open, especially if you have thicker fabrics which I have. batiks and they press with your fingers quite easily, but you can press this seam open if you wish.
Now we are ready to iron. Now, to iron this on, you'll notice that it's not very flat and that's because it's almost impossible to sew these without stretching them. a little bit, so you have to be very careful when ironing because we don't want to make it worse, we want it to be flatter, so I'm going to iron it and start with these sections here. I'm not going to use steam, I'm just going to flatten these four areas and then try to get this back so it's square. You can see this is curving down a little bit, so I'm just going to flatten it a little bit with the dry iron right now because we don't want to use steam until we have it pretty flat and square and it wants to get back to the shape it should be. , but sometimes it's necessary I just have to help it a little bit once you get it looking flat and square then you can add a little bit of steam to make it the finished block so I'm going to go ahead and do all 12 and then I'll show you what is.
It looks like I've got this all set up, so let's lay them out and then we can start to see how the rings interlock and how these four accents come together here, so you can see when you put four together like this, now we have another one. the ring is shown, so every time you place another block you get all these interlocking rings. This is a quilt that looks much better when you have several blocks laid out, so it's going to be very easy to put these blocks together because we just have to match here and here very easy I'm going to put the top together then I'm going to put a little border on the fabric background and then a printed border and then I can put it on this quilting machine the double wedding ring has the borders and it's on the machine here and now we have to choose a thread color.
I think I'm going to stick with something white because I don't really want the padding to show too much in these light areas, obviously we could choose this one, which is the same background color, but it will show quite a bit in those dark areas. It's a kind of dark aquamarine that looks great, it blends into the light areas and even in the darker areas you don't see much. I have one that is a little lighter, it will probably show up more in those dark parts. I have some light blue again. This would work very well.
It will blend in, not much will be seen in the mosaic. I think I'm going to like it. this green is best for quilting. I'm going to use a pattern called bubble because it has these pretty circle designs and I think it will go well with the double wedding ring pattern, so I already have the whole quilt made, I just couldn't. I'll be happier with the result and how much fun it was to make. I was honestly a little anxious about sewing the curves, but it was so much easier than I thought it was going to be now the double wedding ring the way we made it.
You couldn't see the double, you couldn't see the interlocking rings until we had it all done. Now you can't even see where a block starts and where it ends, but this is a block right here with that circle and those. extra stuff is when you put them all together you see everything interlocking so it turned out 57 by 73 inches after I added the borders and if you want to have a curved border on your quilt and you don't want borders you can simply leave these pieces off the outside corners here and then you can still make the curved edge.
You can see the quilting here with those cute big and small circles all over it and I really like the way it now doesn't fight with the binding pattern. I used a fabric that is very similar to the border and then the backing has the same print as the border, but it's a darker color and I use that lighter thread so you can really see the quilting there. Now a few words about these decorative fabrics here. The accents are similar in colors to what I have on my bows, you could certainly do colors that were a little different and then they could stand out a little more, but I really like the way this repeats throughout the entire pattern, It gives it a nice touch. balance now one thing I noticed when I was sewing this is that it would be a perfect project to use scraps because the pieces are so small and because you are cutting from a template after you put them together, scraps would be just perfect, but remember if you want to use any of the precuts, I'll have some sizing guidelines right below the video in the link and tell you how many you need of each different size.
Thank you so much for watching our tutorial today on how to make the double wedding ring quilt we hope you enjoyed it if you have any questions leave them in the comments below and I will be sure to answer now we are going to have a giveaway this is called tea time in bali we did a tutorial on how to make this it just comes from a jelly roll and a couple borders but today you can win this quilt so it's super easy to enter our giveaways just click the link below the video that says giveaway and you enter your name and your email address and remember that we can ship the quilt anywhere in the world, so good luck.
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