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DIY $65 eBay Stratocaster guitar kit (Step by Step)

May 02, 2020
hi i'm Gingka vasus i'll show you how to take a $65




kit and go from this tuck stay tuned the


came well packaged it was in a bag the pickguard all the controls the pickups everything is ready. attached to it and the body of the guitar I'm pretty impressed for the most part it looks good now it's definitely a two piece you can see here where there's some lamination and some nicks and stuff so I'm going to want to sand a little bit with this and then eventually it will have a solid color so that will mean I'm going to want to use a little grain fill on this.
diy 65 ebay stratocaster guitar kit step by step
What I have collected is plastic wood and we will put it. I'll show you how it works real soon but for the most part here in between the body everything here is prewired that's great all your extra parts come in one bag it even came with the strings and a guitar cable also the thing i was most concerned about was the neck and for the most part on this and we'll check the level but i was looking at this and this is a pretty straight neck i'm really happy about this i was a bit surprised by the other guitar kit i had bought this was a block this one has already comes pre-cut in the traditional fender shape that's ok but that's an interesting surprise to me now i'm going to have to do some work on this and i'm going to show you how to double check to make sure that all your frets are level but the main thing i noticed is that the frets are rough like if i put it together right now and started playing this the edges of this would break your fingers pretty quick so you know but that's not Big Deal.
diy 65 ebay stratocaster guitar kit step by step

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diy 65 ebay stratocaster guitar kit step by step...

I can figure that out by looking at this: It felt like the neck fit for the most part. I don't think this is going to be a bad build, so I'm excited to see how it goes. Let's see how it works. We'll start with the basic body of the guitar, now it's not bad, but we'll use the p wood plastic and I'm going to put a thin layer on the entire body of the guitar. What we're going to try to do here is basically fill in all the little grains because if I'm going to do this body in a solid color, I don't really want to see the wood grain if that's even possible.
diy 65 ebay stratocaster guitar kit step by step
I'm going to use 220 grit to start with and start taking all this wood filler working in the direction of the grain all the time and then eventually I'm going to work my way up to 400 grit now I'm going to take a wood prep I'm going to seal it with that one time and then I'm going to start staining to get the body ready now you are going to take a damp cloth you are going to clean it and use pre-stained Minwax and just give it a single coat all around what this does is help the grains come back in the wood and then once it dries give it another light sanding, ok now that we've sanded the guitar down.
diy 65 ebay stratocaster guitar kit step by step
I have cleaned it with a damp cloth. I think I have the body as good as I'm going to get it. Feel free to take your it's time to make it as smooth as possible now I'm going to start with how I want to color this now what I want to go with is a classic color style so I'm going to go back to using this original set of acrylic paints these are water - based on acrylic paints and I used it on the Telecaster guitar kit that I did and you can go back and look at that and I'm going to mix these paints and water to get kind of a turquoise with a seafoam green of I think this close to the 72 Fender Strat, ok, I'm going to start, I'll add some water to this, I'm looking for that color, it doesn't have to be exact, but it has to be. be close now I'm going to put a little bit of color on this because I want to make sure that when I stain it like good I think it's going to be pretty close to what I want using a clean cotton rag I just rubbed the paint in like you would have stained.
I put two solid colors in there and now I've cleaned them again and you're ready to go back and start applying the true oil now I'm going to also use new clean cotton rags and start applying a single coat to both sides of the guitar lengthwise from the sides let it dry overnight go back and do another coat and depending on each coat i have sanded in between each one using 500 grit wet dry paper for you to wipe it off and keep applying coats of the real oil in there and working it into the finish now i tried from letting it dry between coats about 24 hours and then sanding lightly even using very fine steel wool, i held the guitar up using a board where the neck would fit so now that i put all my coats on there i gave it one last coat of true oil this time I'm going to wear nylon gloves I'm going to literally hand rub the real oil onto the surface ok so now we want to start on the neck of the guitar now the neck I was thinking was pretty straight and looking down the neck actually looks pretty straight forward but what I'm seeing is there's a definition ite bow all the way to the neck so now in the kit it comes with an allen key and you can adjust neck tension through here now trying to get a good look at this I'm going to hold an aluminum yardstick and you can see there's definitely an arc here so now we're going to have to see if we can adjust this and get that level what enough to even out these frets, so you're going to do a quarter turn each time and do a quarter turn and then check your level.
I've had to do this about three times on this boat and the third time I'm back and it looks like it's going to be pretty close so now you're going to need to be able to sand these guys down so we're going to create a sanding tool so I'm going to use a three dollar economy level that I picked up at Harbor Freight. You'll probably get one at Walmart for the same price and use two twenty sandpaper, mark the thickness on the back of the sandpaper a couple of rows and then take a cheap pair of scissors and cut b with those strips of paper. so now you're using Craft Bond, you're going to spray the back of each of these pieces of sandpaper and go back and apply them to the same level.
Now with a marker you mark the top crown of each of these frets with just a light mark so you can see the black marks what this is going to do is help you see that you are filing the frets evenly so which now using the level and sanding back and forth you will eventually sand down all those black fret marks and you can see you have now leveled all the frets so now take painters tape between each of the frets leaving the fret itself exposed but you want the tape to help protect that rosewood and this will allow you to take another 220 and finish sanding these frets you'll want to sand down any of the rough edges on the ends and then folding the sandpaper over you'll want to recount each one of the threads once you have done that go back with that fine steel wool and re-polish each of the individuals all the frets now feel pretty straight putting a metal edge over it the frets are level now it goes We are going to move on to the next part and that is sanding down the neck and preparing it to seal with the real oil as well so just like the body of the guitar you are going to want to sand that neck down to protect the neck by covering the rosewood with all the painters tape and once again using the real oil and it doesn't take much a few drops and then I was wearing the latex gloves and just hand rub the real oil in make sure you coat everything and no drips and then you can sand with steel wool in between each layer now also on this guitar i built some logos i want to use it for the top now you can redo them with the original fender logos i created new logos using slider stickers and will make a video on how to recreate your own slider stickers im amazed how far true oil can go many miles off Tru oil this is a bottle and did the finis h on the neck and the whole guitar and the guitar had multiple coats depending on the time of year and temperature sometimes you can reapply a coat of true oil in as little as two hours now i usually try to let things dry for up to 24 hours so they really have a chance to perk up a bit ok i put about six or seven coats of the real oil on this it has a nice shine to it but it has a lot of little bits of fiber that i'm going to want to buff out now how am i going to approach this is that i'm going to use an automotive paste wax paste rub and buff it so i have that and a pack of buffing pads that should fit a Drill i ordered on amazon so we'll try them out and see how they work now using the applicator that came with the auto polisher, apply a nice liberal coat, put a little pressure on that thing, and rub that paste in afterwards. letting it dry i am going to go back with the buff on the drill and there are several different pads s and i just took the thicker pads it comes with and gave it a coat once it worked and i was amazed at how quickly you started to buff it up when flipping it over.
I did the same approach for the face and edge after buffing it all up I switched to a finer foam and buffed again and got a mirror finish with that very happy without it turning out well so now we have most of the tape off adhesive the neck is polished and I'm going to apply a little bit of linseed oil to the actual rosewood the fret bars here because I think that will make it slicker and we're better and it'll also look better now I've had this linseed oil cut since forever and i just said it goes it goes far now the fun begins you've been through all this work to make everything look great so now you can put it together so I'm going to use the pickguard with the pickups to help align the bridge mount now once again no screws drilled into this no mounting holes so i have to flap this as i go so the pickguard helped me line up the six screws that will hold the bridge in place place with e With the bridge in place that you are going to flip, place the body on top and prepare to mount the clamp that holds the springs.
Here is the clamp that will hold the springs in and it also comes with two wood screws that will mount at a downward angle through the body. Do not try to drill them directly on yourself. I'm going to drill them at an angle. I pre-drilled them and then drove in the wood screws to secure this, but once you've got them in place, you'll be able to back out those two screws about a half inch. to three quarters of an inch and that will give you a bit of clearance to put the springs in place over the springs now the option looked around and it seems like the springs are a personal preference if some people just want one spring to have a response very soft to the slam bar something to something hat three I'm going to go ahead and mount all three springs and even the locations there are multiple locations you can mount them as well but I'm going to start with full tension and I can always come back later and readjust that once you have all three springs mounted you can go back with the drill and tighten those two wood screws securing the tension in the front ok now let's go ahead and mount the neck onto the guitar, the neck luckily for this guitar was very tight and i am going to pre-drill my holes before screwing them in now i have marked the bit to make sure i dont drill the holes dem asian deeps the last thing you want is a screw coming out of your threat board so once they are pre-drilled go back in with the provided screws and secure the neck tight, now it's time to put the pit guard on its place now luckily this already comes with pickups and the volume knobs all pre-installed so i'm going to run the wires through the cavity they come in or ut in the jack to plug in the power cord and secure the pickguard ok , so I put the guitar, basic pickups and all pushed cord in Austin.
I'm looking at this and there's a ground wire here, so I figured it out. this ground wire will need to go back through the body of the guitar and connect and ground right here on the back of the guitar first so now removing the 50 million screws on the pickguard now I'll have to take the remove the guard and take the green wire and run it through the body of the guitar and in between the springs in the back once you've drilled that hole and run it through there then I'll solder the green wire to that shell you had or the cleat which I had talked about before, so now here we go again.
This time I'm going to put the black and white wire through the hole that will go to the jack on the guitar and then make sure the green wire goes. all the way through the body of the guitar then i'll have to go back andrey secure the pickguard again now i'm going to get ready to solder i've been heating up the soldering iron and i'm going to use a wipe or rag to help protect the body and you will will you do now solder the black and white wire(s) to the guitar jack take your time and i'm not a great welder but the simplest of you knows even if you have no experience this is a great way to learn this is a very very simple simple soldering that has to be done so you solder the white wire and the black wire to the guitar cable connector and then you're going to solder the green wire to that heel plate that you have now on the back of the guitar it's time to install all the machine heads to have a washer and then a nut topush down on each one so I'm going to go ahead and screw each one on by hand after I lock them down I'll screw the back on then go back with a wrench and tighten the front on so take your time on the set you have a little bit of play in these but you want it you want to be able to make sure you can line them all up exactly where you want the holes to be pre-drilled they fit well there is a little hole that you will have to pre-drill in the back and there it is where you're going to want to make sure you have a little bit of room to play and everything fits perfectly so I'm going to go down I'm going to pre-drill all these holes with a small bit and these are very very small screws that fit into these and line up and screw each of the tuning pegs once you've done that you can go back with a wrench and just secure the lead tighten each of the tuning pegs also now into the nut on the extreme this guitar kit didn't come with the nut pre-installed now i'm going to go ahead and use crazy glue o' y gorilla glue to help secure that i hope i'm heading in the direction i'm using that but it seemed to secure it fine as well which now I'm going to start feeding the guitar string. ngs on it now instead of using the guitar strings that came with the kit I went ahead and bought a set of premium strings if it can do anything for your kit even though its a cheap $65 kit put some effort into buying a decent set of strings once you have the strings installed they push in from the back you can tighten them all and this shouldn't take you long on all the few things to finish there are the guitar strap holders for the back or the the end of the guitar and also towards the neck, that's ok, the only thing left to do is make sure your ground wires are out of the way and secure the cover, the spring cover on the back of the guitar, this is for the most part the end of all your basic assembly now you'll want to spend some time on this and tune it up get a good setup take your time have some fun with the guitar but i'm very happy with how It all turned out that you have a sweet little fancy looking guitar, you know?
I had a lot of fun building this guitar. This was a great little project. I am very happy with the result. I like the color. I put a bit of work into that body. I spent some time on the neck to level the frets in the water. slide up on the headstock this is a great little project for 65 bucks this thing would make an awesome wall hanging so you know how you can go wrong with that so I give it a thumbs up listen if you enjoyed this video Please consider subscribing give me a comment below let me know your ideas your suggestions if you have ideas for future DIY projects you would like to see me build please let me know it's been a lot of fun and see you soon ok so I have a lot to learn about playing the guitar

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