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DEFEATED! Tow Lot Bought 500HP Mercedes CL55 AMG Sat For 7 Years

May 30, 2024
will serve. It doesn't sound like anything negative is happening, okay, I've got my programmer here, let's see if we can get it to activate the Eis module, which is the ignition key, and let's turn it S type 221. Also what is this. Sometimes it doesn't work, we just have to try things that don't work well, so we're a little further away. Now that I have my Power Probe connected to power, let's go and apply 12 volts to one of the terminals on the E, which is the power switch and see if this thing comes to life, see if we can't get power to terminal 15.
defeated tow lot bought 500hp mercedes cl55 amg sat for 7 years
I doubt this is going to work, I still can't turn the ignition on, but things are happening. The fan is running, oh look at all the dust. things aren't happy, I hope my little harness incident isn't causing any problems, let's see, oh he's mad. The One Lantern Works fan works. The groups light up. I don't know if I can start with Power Probe, that might be a test. It says there are no miles so we had some problems, yeah well I'm not sure what my boys sacrificed to the deities that open the trunk, but they opened the trunk without destroying anything.
defeated tow lot bought 500hp mercedes cl55 amg sat for 7 years

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defeated tow lot bought 500hp mercedes cl55 amg sat for 7 years...

I don't know what they did, but the only thing that was really in Here that really helps us in some ways and doesn't help us at all is the easy access to the battery terminals and the date on the battery is 6 of 14, so That will give you an idea of ​​how old this car is or how old it is. been sitting, I don't think there are many 9 year old batteries left, but what we're going to do next is test all the powers and grounds on the Eis and hopefully we'll find a problem that we can easily rectify, okay, I've got everything hooked up. .
defeated tow lot bought 500hp mercedes cl55 amg sat for 7 years
I have a jump box. I think this is the one with the car. Let's be able to investigate this. I hope this is a fairly small space. Let's look for a good ground. I have this is my favorite power determination device. Good. I have three twos. I have no power in terminal one. I have it in two and I have three and then I don't know what terminal four is and no. It doesn't look like five are used, so let's look at the wiring diagram. Well, terminal one is fine, it's terminal 15, which is your terminal one assignment, but they call it terminal 15.
defeated tow lot bought 500hp mercedes cl55 amg sat for 7 years
I'm missing there being a starter relay like just a fuse, so we need to see, we need to go to the module right front fuse relay, let's say the right rear of the engine compartment, see if we have power here and whether we have it or not, either way we're going to check this fuse. Fuse 29 is 20 amps. The fuse we're looking for is here, but I don't see any 20s, which is alarming. Everything is a little crunchy here. In fact, I don't remember removing the lid. but maybe yes. I brought a bunch of extra fuses. I see something that's a little suspicious right here. uh that's destroyed, it looks like a 10 amp or at least that's what it was.
Oh, that didn't go as planned. I see why. It's destroyed, it looks like someone tried to take it out and it's, it's fused together, well, there's half of it. I don't know what they used to try to get it out, but it doesn't take much effort. Well, then it was red. It's a 10 amp fuse and I really don't want to put another one in because it's blown. This goes right into the fire and puts a 20 in there. I have no idea if it's supposed to be like this before continuing. I'm going to check the rest of these fuses to see what they look like, just giving them a quick look.
I don't see anything else busted, there might be five amps right here, that's a little tacky, one just fell apart. The fuses are just rubbish, they are just corroded. This clearly has some moisture in it. This box could also be a problem, could you be there? I'm going to try some unconventional things here. I mean conventional for this place, but unconventional for your usual repair. I have the jump box connected, I have my Power Probe connected and we're going to take the Power Probe and apply it to terminal 15, which activates everything, to see if we can do that very quickly.
The board is on, the fan is on, look, come on, come on, the fan is angry, let's ignore that loud noise and what I've decided to do is be the starter relay. Now I checked the oil, there is a dipstick. right there, so let's turn on the relay and it died, what happened, let's find out, it turned off this terminal, so let's try it again to see if we can turn it back on. I hope I don't have to be the relay and turn it back on because I don't have arms long enough for that, okay, let's turn it back on, there goes the fan, let's go around the back so it's not so loud.
I bet you The same thing is going to happen, but you know it's worth a try, here we go, no, okay, let's try something else, it may be hard to see, but I have the zipper button tied on the Power Probe. This is a bad idea, don't try it. this and now we're going to try it again I'll probably let the smoke come out of something but it's okay, it's starting that's promising, it doesn't sound so good, although we're going to give it some ether because I don't think it's getting any fuel. Well then this will be the best way to do this.
I think there's some hoses and stuff down here. I don't know if I can remove this completely or not. Oh, there's a clip. Okay, so there's a crankcase. hose, okay, let's just put it aside, let's open the throttle body, spray it, hopefully this thing barks a little or maybe not, we have to test it, it'll probably be good, but it's better for everyone. right, I'm going to turn everything on at the right time so that it's the starter relay, you want it to almost activate, let's load it with a lot more fuel, no, I needed them, come back, no, I think there is still some circuit that is not there happy, but The engine is not blocked, so that is a good sign.
I did it. Angry, I should probably let the starter cool for a minute or not. No, we are draining the battery, but I think it will work, but I see some won't. There are things so cool that they will probably stop me from trying much harder. Let me close this and I'll show you what I'm seeing. That's bad. The supercharger pulley is not good. You should never see her. Exposed ball bearings there should be an outer cover, as you can see it's starting to fall apart, it's actually fallen apart, it's practically gone, so I don't know how much more I want to get into this, um, I don't really have the extra pulley.
I don't have the tools to try to fix this. This might end up being a compression and leak test at a later date, but I really want to hear it work. Let's try a little more. things to see if we can close the fuel pump relay at the same time, good contact, that sounded good, it wants to start the fuel could also be bad, there are so many variables right now, I don't think it's getting fuel, we're going Let's break this, this is the fuel pump cover and let's take this off and see what's behind it, well, that's pretty messy, well, I can feel that there's some of this that's hot, that's got some temperature, which means it's I've been seeing some voltage, some power, I don't see any leaks, but I bet you this thing is locked up, the little couple hits the hammer while all the power is applied and we may have fuel pressure again, let's try it, okay?
Now I'm going to check the fuel pump to see how it sounds on power. I have my uh Power Probe connected to my jump box. I just heard something making noise, so I don't know what that was. We're going to go by color here, that should tell us what the power is, yeah, okay, so this is ground because Brown on German cars or European cars is Earth normally, so now it's shorted, okay, Let's put the fuel pump in for later. It's going to take a little effort here, but it'll be okay guys, no, that's not how we're going to do it.
This alligator clip, whoever designs these things clearly only cares about one thing and that's safety and that's not what we're looking for today we're hitting a fuel pump while giving it voltage that's not what I'm safety is not what I'm about I'm interested come on, it may be too far away guys, I think the pump is dead it has perished it has been inactive for too long no, this is not working very well, it was worth a try. I called my friend Eric and asked him for help and he brought me this difficult book that contains all the Mercedes diagnostic equipment uh in the OEM. things, so I've been here moving things around trying to see where the can system is, all the connectors I need to check there, the reason the key won't turn is that it has a fault in the can system, so something It's bringing down the system.
I'll show you how I figured it out or how it was solved, so on your Eis module, this connector here has three wires that are required to connect to the key. to turn the ignition on, these are literally just outputs for voltage input and output for voltage, those are the normal ignition switch wires, but here you have a power, a ground and a Kline and we test the power, we take some little pins that I have. Here and on my meter and we have power, we have ground that just comes out of the Kline, which is part of the network, and then we try to connect the scan tool to it and that's what we're going to do now.
System diagnostics can cause problems. codes, there are the codes I saw before, shorten the can cables, the can cables are interrupted, well, sorry for the rolling bars, guys, but this is, oh, that's not what I wanted to do here , is the x36 connector, which is the can connector on the left side of the board. that's the one with the ignition switch according to this so X3 6 Sam front left Sam front right Sam steering column module there we are the Eis easy control unit that's the ignition switch so I think I've identified what wires that's coming from, so I'm going to isolate everything else, hopefully we're going to get rid of this one, this one, we might leave the instrument cluster.
No, I'd have to pull each of these out to figure out which is which. I think we can leave the Gateway module. I can figure it out and, um, but we're going to try to delete them all and get them back one at a time and hopefully we can activate this key when we know what the problem is. This is how I did it. I got two of these disconnected, see here. I found what color wire is the Kline, what is this wire here, that brown wire with red stripes and then I found that same color wire in this connector for the ignition switch and then I did a continuity test between this and then I did this bus bar essentially is what a can bus bar is and then I made this one on its own and then I made this one and when I made this one we have continuity so the things I'm starting to notice is that this connector doesn't like to fit into this can connector it just doesn't like to come out of here like leave it hey so I don't know if that was the problem originally when I took this whole thing apart to take out the Eis to program a key.
I think I disconnected all of these, which I don't know. I tried to do this with this unplugged and then plugged it back in, but I don't know. I don't understand why I can't put this back in, so I'm going to play with this a little bit more and see if we can get it back in because if it wasn't in place, it could have been a problem all along, okay? We made some more progress and I called my friend Ed and he helped me so I did it. I tested the continuity of the high power cable, which is this cable here on the gateway module and when I had them all plugged in.
This bus bar had continuity with both sides, so there was a short, so one of these is shorting the can system, so what I'm going to do is do a continuity test between each of these. to try to isolate which of these is the data link connector, which of these is the gateway module and which of these is the Eis and if I can only have those things in the system and those things are not shorted, the key should turn, that's all I'm trying to do here is just get the key to turn right, let's see if we can do this here, we're going to do this one at a time, we'll make sure they have no communication or continuity between both, okay, no, this is very difficult, I need different pins here, okay, so one is okay, that test is fine, there's no corrosion anywhere here, so it's not like I have a problem with water or humidity. intrusion I think I have an idea, let's try to find x35 um basically we've gone through x36 right here and we've gone through x34, but the way this reads it seems like it's going from oh gosh.
God, that's not what I wanted to do. I'm bad at using this, just FYI, it's not what I wanted to do either. Oh hey, I can scroll so x34, x35 and x36 are all connected here and then there are a few others that connect fine. no, this is the link right here, this is the link, oh my gosh, stop, this is the link right here, so I've had a good look at 34. I've had a good look at 36, but I haven't looked. at 35 and it says 35 is um wait, 35 is basically the same place as 34 just on the other side, so let's take it apart and see what it looks like, the seat was acting pretty strange and remember, uh, Control Modules of the seatleft front on that one, so uh and the driver's door controls all the windows.
The windows rolled down as soon as I started this car, so I think there might be some issues there, but let's dig in and see what we can find. Well, I lifted the Dugout x35 carpet, it doesn't look like it's corroded. I don't see any major issues here eh it doesn't look like this side has been wet so that's a good sign however I'm looking at these connectors and it looks like what I think is where this one comes from as it goes from 36 to 35 to 34, the one that was creating a problem and throwing Cod was this, if I connect it and run the test it will throw an interrupted code a 9306, but if I leave it disconnected it doesn't throw the code which doesn't mean that's the problem , it just means that the problem is further down the chain because I think the way this works is that this connector, since it has that little identifier, is the same as this connector, which I can prove in a continuity test.
I can try this one right there. In a continuity test, that's probably what we're going to do. I'm going to have better access to all of this. We do a continuity test. We try that and we're just going to work on the chain. Let's do a little summary. x36 i.e. x35 and this one in the footwell is x34 so when I unplug x34 from x35 it doesn't throw codes but when I plug it back in it does throw codes which tells me the problem is on this side here it is where is the problem. with the can network and I have it throwing a code now so what I'm going to do is disconnect each of these one at a time but then while I was digging here I looked at that connector and obviously there's been water in here there's tons corrosion everywhere, even up there at that junction, this doesn't look good, so basically what I'm doing is I'm pulling a connector off this bus bar and then I'm going to clear the codes.
Let's delete the codes actually before you do that, just pull out one of these. I've done my testing, they're all good circuits and I've got three bad ones, which isn't really a surprise. I was really hoping for one but there are three so now that there are no trouble codes let's see if that ignition turns, bad news guys it still doesn't turn so while I may have fixed a problem or eliminated a problem it hasn't. It's the only problem, well, we have a blown fuse here fusing it was 78, it's a 7 and a half, so we're. I'm going to give it a 10 just for 25% extra capacity and it just blew the fuse yeah cool so I found fuse 78 it's right here and it looks like it goes to the steering column module the steering column horn alarm signal, the engine control module and the ignition switch I don't think the ignition switch is the problem, but you know, those connectors on that engine control module look pretty rough, so the next thing we're going to do is to disconnect the engine control module.
We are going to put another fuse in it and see if it explodes, if not, we are like trapped in the water. I don't have another computer and this is the end of the road for me, but if so, then it is the steering column module or the alarm signal. We will find that we disconnect them and hope for the best. They put these engine control modules in literally the worst possible place. This is what is here. It's actually quite loose. here, but I've been playing with this trying to get that fuse loose, so let's get these connectors out, uh, that one's not too bad, but this area fills up with water because things come off the windshield, the drains get clogged, uh, let's move on forward. here that didn't feel right oh no, okay, let's move on.
I don't see anything terrible yet, it's just not, it's not perfect, it's corroded, let's get this one, this is a power and ground connector, usually you have to have ground power. so you have a lot of corrosion through the electrolysis that doesn't come out well oh oh yeah, a lot of corrosion on this connector a little bit over here these three look pretty decent although there's a little bit about this that's bad, let's go To open this up and see if It's corroded inside, a lot of corrosion came out when I took that side out, it doesn't look too bad, is this coming?
Oh, this is sealed to this. I can't see what the back is. It looks like this really doesn't look that bad. I expected something much worse. I don't see any problems with the board. I've seen them taken apart before, not just on these cars but on all cars and you'll see all of them. CU types of corrosion if they're wet when there's energy going through them, uh, it's bad that you don't want the can to be pretty corroded right there, so I'm going to put this together again, try to go a little further. I don't know how much further I can go with this car, it doesn't look very good.
I'm going to give the car 12 volts and if this thing blows up right away that means it's something else, if it doesn't blow up we'll do it. Plug the computer back in and see if the fuse blows. I have a lot of fuses here. These big two door cars are kind of a challenge here, please don't click or pop, okay, awesome. I'm not done yet, so we've proven it. It's not the engine control module because it still blows a fuse with that disconnected, I mean I guess it could still be wired but let's go to the next stop which is the alarm signal horn which according to the internet is on the left. front fender like behind the wheel behind the fender liner so let's dig in I think that's it never mind the beep that's my uh J box that shouldn't be hanging off the car okay that's fixed that's this right here Very good, it's not corroded.
Let's see if the fuse blows again. The car has power again. The engine control module and siren are disconnected. Now we're going to install a new fuse and if it blows, we'll go to the steering. column module not showing up now I really wonder if we can turn the key, come on honey please, I don't want to fight with anything else. The key turns, it doesn't start, but the key turns on its own, says Computing data Computing data. climate controls on I think the jump box is low so let's put the other one on top and see if we can get it to start on its own power let's turn the key off oh it's so awesome.
The DME is connected again and if the key is still turning we are still fine oh the key is still in the right position here we go I'm not happy so since it doesn't engage the starter let me see if I need to be on the brake. I wonder if I have to be on the brakes for that to happen? No, it doesn't want to engage the starter. I don't have anything disconnected, so let's see if we can connect a light out and test the injector pulse before giving this an alternative fuel source. Noid light has no pulse, that's not good, let's try one more time, no, okay, let's get the engine control unit codes out for the first time.
Communicates? If you don't communicate, we're practically dead in the water. Here I think it's that corrosion, fingers crossed, oh man we're on fault codes, ah, stored in current, stored in current, stored in current, something's shorted to ground, oh man this is a whole , it has to be that all that corrosion, let's just fix it delete them all and see what comes back, which will be all because everything was stored in the stream uh, yeah, yeah, oh, there's less. P 1220 Throttle, some throttle codes, short circuit to battery or open circuit for intake air tap assembly air sensor. flapper electrical failure butterfly valve short to ground let me investigate and see if I can find any reason why I found a missing 20 amp fuse in this fuse box.
I didn't know there was a missing fuse because I could barely see the terminals because everything is a little corroded, but since I replaced it I cleared the codes. I only have a fuel tank level code which doesn't worry me much and I can hear the throttle body whining which is a good sign. I verified that when you use the accelerator pedal, the accelerator pedal, the accelerator plate moves, that's amazing, so now we're going to be the starter relay again because it still doesn't start or activate the starter motor and we're going to see if we have injector pulse, okay, here we go, oh, that was a promising thing, let's give it, I have no idea what it was, we're just going to have Anno ignore that sound and then give him some ether, oh yeah, let's do that.
Again, I still don't have an injector pulse, but it's working fine, it works, but I still don't have an injector pulse, but why are we going to run the codes again now that we had it running? Let's look at the electronic esm, oh, it has many. of codes can pump air, charcoal canister, oxygen sensor, okay, so it's stored, we'll just fix it by removing them. H, all kinds of codes are still fine or spinning, so the board clicks, look at that single code, huh. I did that last time too, so I think I have a chance to see if I have a pulse at the injector before I spend the time it takes to hook up another fuel source, so let's see if we have a pulse at the injector.
No pulse, runs without knocking and I can tell you that the blower pulley sounds absolutely terrible. I don't know how much more I want to try this. No, it's okay, no, I'm done. I think I'll call it guys. I heard the engine running. No, it doesn't sound wonderful because the starting fluid is not the correct fuel, but it works and I can do a compression test on it now. I can do a leak test on it. I feel good to be able to communicate with everything. We know we have corrosion in the DME. I think I'm going to call him man.
I really wanted this to idle, but I don't see that happening. The weather was not kind to this car. This certainly. Isn't that the ending you wanted? I really wanted to listen to this thing revving and idling and see what it all sounded like, but it all starts to stack up against that idea between the supercharger pulley that feels like it's going to explode at any moment and God knows how. The oil is old, I don't know if it has coolant or not, there are a lot of question marks and there are clearly other wiring problems in this car.
Time is not doing these cars any favors. These cars don't like to sit. weeds don't like to be left out and while this was a very very expensive car, many cars that are now 20 and 30

years

old are in desperate need of repair or being put out of their misery, we are also new and expensive. You know, it only takes one kind of owner to wreck a car. I'm not going to say anything about the person who owned this because he came out of a toll so I don't really know what the scenario could be that no one could.
Find out what I found out what was wrong with him or maybe all I found were things that the elements and time did to him. Either way I feel a little better. I know the car's mileage. I can turn the key. so I know the key and the ignition, the whole system worked. I know the engine doesn't sound like a box of rocks about to explode, so I'm confident the bottom end is fine. We're going to compress and leak test when this is inventoried, I won't sell the computer because I suspect that's the reason we don't have injector pulse among some of the other issues that came up in the codes anyway, I don't always come out Smell Roses are not always like that.
I know that in many videos in the past I have generally been successful and I would be lying if I told you that I choose things where I expect the result to be very favorable. you know, my license plate, my experience usually tells me how something will end up and you know I don't have any extra CL 55's or any Mercedes with 215 chassis so I don't have any Gateway modules or Sams or extra motor controllers or any extra parts for these cars, This is the only one I have, which makes fixing it on the cheap that much more daunting, but either way I'm still somewhat happy.
I will feel good selling the transmission. These are great engines, they generally don't have problems unless they've been abused, you know, 140,000 Mi wouldn't exactly call that low, but it's not terrible considering the car is 20

years

old, this one was definitely 10 times harder than the Miata Burned. Miatas I know very well and have 10 of at least At any given time, I don't know very well. I had to enlist the help of my friend Eric and my friend Ed, they walked me through several steps of the diagnostic process and I was able to fix some problems. Now I don't know if it is possible.
The problems I encountered were going to prevent this from going this far. I didn't realize there was another fuse box in the car, but either way I can sleep better knowing I got as far as I could. I generally don't spend this. A lot of time trying to get cars working in other scrap yards and other businesses. I guarantee you don't go through this type of work because it just completely negates any kind of gain for the time invested, but I would like to show you how far we go. We'll go, you know, check the oil filter for metal and the oil for metal.
We will do some things to make sure that what is sold is good. We will place a borescope in the cylinders, which we would normally do in an engine. so it's probably worth $3 or $4000. I hope you enjoyed this video. I know it's outside the norm, but maybe it will become the new norm, but I hope it's not that bad. I don't think I can go backDo this for a while, as always. I love all the comments, all the feedback and even the criticism. I love them all and will see them in the next one.

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