Converting an iPhone XS Into a 12 Pro Max

Hey guys, welcome back to another great video from jefferies. In this video I am going to transform a smashed and broken iPhone 10s max into an iPhone 12 Pro Max using this custom case, this iPhone will not only be undamaged but will also look like a newer model, our custom case is in blue color peaceful of the iPhone 12 Pro and, at first glance, it seems indistinguishable from the original. The inside of the case is made to fit the older iPhone 10s max and also contains all the correct screw locations needed for all components. A custom flash flex cable is included that allows us to reposition the flash since the iPhone 10s only has two cameras.

This new case has a built-in fake third camera and a lidar sensor. You cannot simply install a normal iPhone 12 case as its internal components differ. I'm curious to see how the final result turns out and if it looks like a real iPhone 12 Pro Max. While we change the case, we will also replace the screen since it is damaged and the battery too, just in case, to start with. I will remove the two pentalobe screws from the bottom of our iPhone 10s max and then I can use a suction cup to lift the display panel and insert a plastic pick.

I didn't even need to use heat for this phone as it came apart very easily at first. I thought someone must have been inside, but from what I can tell it appears to have never been opened. The eye hold tool will hold the screen in place while I unscrew the brackets and disconnect the flex cables from the screen once we have removed the brackets. I'll start disconnecting the flex cables. The first one is glued in place and is part of the face ID sensor. If it is damaged, it cannot be replaced unless Apple does so. Once we have disconnected it, we only need to disconnect two display flex cables before we can.

Remove the entire screen assembly Now that we have it removed, we can take a good look inside this iPhone 10s max in its completely original configuration. Now we're going to tear this phone down and remove everything, down to those little mesh grills on the speaker ports to transfer those components to our iPhone 12 style case. I'll start at the bottom of the phone and remove the touch engine and speaker, as well as a few other small components and screws that will give us access to the battery which will be removed next, while the bottom section doesn't take up much space, there are a lot of screws of all different types so I'll have to keep changing my screwdriver after disconnecting the flexible cable underneath.

Remove both the touch motor and the speaker, with that out of the way we can now access the battery removal strips. These stubborn things hold the battery in place too well, they are easy to break, but if pulled horizontally there is less chance of breaking them. The main problem with this is trying to get enough space to remove the strips. There are a lot of breakable things inside and you don't want to damage them by trying to remove the battery with the battery free. It's time to disconnect the front camera and Face ID Module, these cables are also stuck in place, so special care must be taken when removing this component as it cannot be replaced without the use of the proprietary pairing tools from Apple.

Next up is our logic board, there is a huge amount of flexibility. cables that need to be removed as well as the camera modules which will make removing the logic board a little easier as we need to remove them anyway we will take them out now if you thought there were a lot of flexible cables under this little bracket at the end there are two more, after unfastening three Phillips head screws and removing the SIM card tray, we can remove our logic board from the phone downwards at the bottom, it's time to remove the charging port and antenna from our iPhone as mentioned above.

There are several different types of screws here, including tri-wing Phillips and a special standoff bit, so keeping track of the screws is very important when it comes time to reassemble this phone, after removing the charging port. , we finally have access to that antenna which we can now detach and to remove it from the phone and proceed down to the microscopic level, we now need to remove the little plastic retaining brackets and mesh grills from the speaker and microphone ports. These are not included in our new case so we will have to move them in front of our old one, this is a step that many repair technicians overlook because it is time consuming and a very difficult process, although as with all my repairs, My goal is to complete them as best as possible.

On the top of our iPhone there are a few more antennas. We will have to remove it from the case, starting with this one on the right side that surrounds our camera port, at the top there is also another antenna that we will have to unscrew and remove. This one has a lot of small clips. brackets and other accessories that connect to the screw holes, so we'll need to make sure to keep track of those for when it comes time to reassemble the phone on the right side. I will have to unclip the power button, a screen retention clip and the SIM eject push rod on the left side, it's a similar process with many more screen retention clips as well as the volume switch cable and silence, there is also a sensor or something on that cable that connects to the frame, although I can't find what it is. or what it does, but this flex cable also connects to the wireless charging module, so we'll have to take it out next.

I'll start by inserting a metal pry bar to allow me to create a space into which I can insert this plastic pick. and release the adhesive under the wireless charging module once it is out of the way we can take a look at the module before proceeding to remove the volume and power buttons. There is a spring and retaining clip that you will need to remove from each button. This is a very complicated process and will require a very precise pair of pliers and a metal pry tool in order to pry up the retaining clip. Once they are out, we have completely disassembled our iPhone 10s max, we can now see all the parts that have been removed spread across two magnetic mats.

There are actually a lot of parts and a lot of screws on this iPhone, significantly more than those found on many other smartphones. Now it's time to break in our new replacement case that's styled after the iPhone 12 Pro and start putting everything back together. I'll start with the volume and power buttons, as you can see the old ones are not only dirty but they also contain this little rubber O-ring that we will have to transfer to our new buttons. I will have to do this for both pins on each button. These are also another step that is commonly skipped, although they are not necessary.

These O-rings help prevent debris and water from entering the phone after the O-rings have been installed. I can get them. The buttons on our new frame below are the retaining clips and springs for the buttons we just installed. I faced some difficulties with this step as two of the replacement buttons had slight defects on their legs after a bit of work I was able to fix them and install the retaining clips before we can reinstall the flex cable we will have to change the mute switch from the black button on the iPhone 10s to the pacific blue button on our iPhone 12, this will match our new case so it is a necessary step.

I'll install our button assembly and wireless charging module back into place after securing all the Philips head screws. Now I can glue the wireless charging module in place to do it. I'll use some e8000 glue. I would never recommend anyone to use this glue. to hold a screen assembly or the back of a phone, but for small things like a wireless charging module or an LED flash, it works perfectly fine, speaking of an LED flash, this is our modified one, which is specific for this frame modified, it also contains the energy. rear camera button and microphone I will screw down the power button before continuing with our repair after reconnecting the SIM card tray push rod I will reattach all the brackets responsible for holding the front screen panel facing down at the bottom of the phone, it's time to reinstall the mesh grilles and their retaining plastic parts, this tedious job definitely requires a lot of patience.

I found it was easier to hold the phone and allow gravity to help it get into these mesh grills, once installed we can reattach the antenna. and the charging port assembly back on our phone, there are many screws that will need to be placed at this point to secure both components. Next step is the touch motor and speaker assembly, after securing the connector then I can line everything up. and secure it in place making sure to replace the little grounding clip that goes on the bottom screw of the taptic motor after everything on the bottom is secured in place.

I can put this little protective piece back on the left side before turning our attention to the top of the phone again, looking at the power button flex cable, it has the modified LED flash installed, this allows us to reposition the flash in the location where it would be on the iPhone 12. While the LED flash fits, there is nowhere visible. to install the microphone next to it was originally located between the two cameras but that is no longer possible, however I noticed a small hole under where the microphone was, it didn't turn out to be a hole for the microphone or even a possible location. to say, since it created such a big bulge that the logic board wouldn't fit in the back, you can see the microphone hole but it's covered by metal and our current cable would never be able to reach it anyway, I decided to approach the seller and I asked for some advice to summarize, they said there was no microphone with the new flex cable and the factory does not generate useless flex cables, but the installation position depends on what I want, but they recommended the edge of the camera frame, so I decided Go with it, I also referenced some other videos online where people have done this same conversion, although in those videos they tended to just hide the microphone cable and didn't mention the fact that there was nowhere to put it and that it could actually affect.

Sound Quality I decided to go ahead and hope for the best so that the audio would be at least halfway decent for the rear microphone. If there were issues with this microphone, it won't affect things like Siri or phone calls since they use different microphones. throughout the phone, although it would destroy the ability to record video on this phone, so I really hope the sound actually works and is halfway decent. Now it's time to reinstall our logic board and this is where we face our first problem, the new one. The flex cable for our LED flash and power button is bent and doesn't connect very easily.

The way I connected it was to slightly remove our logic board, plug it in, and then push our logic board back into place. This bends the cable, but it stays in place after a problem is resolved, it is discovered that the logic board is not flat and after installing two Phillips head screws, it really becomes apparent that something is wrong and of course, Our modified flex cable is to blame for the microphone on that cable. under the dash making it uneven, I had to reposition the microphone to screw everything together and this brings me to our third problem: the microphone is not actually pointing out of the device, it is stuck inside which means it is picking up sound. from inside the phone and not from the outside, there is no way around it, the only thing I can do is continue with the reassembly.

The microphone is now blocking the camera flex cable, so I had to move it further away to be able to connect the flex. cable for the camera. I don't understand how they could have gone so far as to make a custom square frame and various other things to make all of this work, but then completely forget to make sure the microphone has a place to install independently of me. I'm going to continue with this build and hope that our microphone is at least somewhat usable with the inside almost assembled. Now it's time to turn our attention to our new display panel.

Apple pairs the screen to the phone using the serial number, so I'll have to do the transfer. Those numbers from the old screen to the new one in order to retain the true tone function. Another paired component inside is the Face ID module and headset flex cable, which is what I'm removing now. It is important notdamage any of this. will permanently break facial identification capabilities. Of course, it is held on with some light adhesive, so using a little heat can help the removal process. I will have to transfer it to our new screen, which is a refurbished panel, meaning it is an Apple screen. that was already cracked previously and someone replaced the top layer of glass.

Now it's time to join the two halves together and to do this I will need to install some new adhesive. This was included with the case, so I'm not sure if it differs from the original. I will apply it on the phone and remove the protective film. At this point I can install our new battery. This will ensure that after all this work, this phone has good battery life. It's finally time to get our display panel connected and I'll test our phone. I'll start by connecting the headset and face ID cable as well as the two cables for the display panel, after reconnecting the battery I can press and hold the power button and they don't greet us.

Turns out our new battery was completely dead after allowing it to charge. We will test the phone. I'm going to reinstall the brackets covering the screen and battery connections after they're installed, all that's left to do is clean the inside. of the device with a microfiber cloth to remove any dust or fingerprints that I left inside the phone, after that we can close everything and complete the build after reinstalling the two pentalobe screws on the bottom of the phone and removing the protective film plastic covering our new display panel, we're done, so this is the iPhone 10s Pro Max.

It may be a tennis ball at heart, but it has the look of the iPhone 12 Pro, we have not only restored a once broken phone, but we have improved its appearance, of course, it lacks the hardware of the iPhone 12, but At first glance it looks almost identical, the fake camera looks realistic, but the curved screen finally gives it away given the shape of the frame also creates a gap at the top and bottom of the screen. By changing the battery, we have activated a battery that cannot be verified as a genuine message, just like the anti-repair mechanisms found on the real iPhone 12. it means that the battery status has been deliberately disabled due to that change in the battery, all the buttons and everything on this phone work perfectly fine and as for the microphone, listen, this is the audio quality coming out of our iPhone 10s converted, this is here is actually a real

iphone

12. uh it's a little worse for wear surprisingly after all that flex cable origami the microphone still works of course it's muffled from being placed inside the phone but it still works as for the modified flash it also works somewhat Other times it just won't turn on and then it will turn on the next time you try to use it.

Overall the case itself is a fantastic mod but that flex cable really disappoints due to the muffled microphone and unreliable flash and on that note this has been a great video from jeffries, if you like what you saw hit the subscribe button and consider checking out the custom tech playlist for more videos like this and if you're looking for any used gadgets. Be sure to check out my website link found in the description. That's it for this video and I'll see you guys next time.