Cabinets with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint and General Finishes Top Coat

Hi, I'm Rochelle, originally from Warren and today I'm working in a client's kitchen where I combine Annie Sloan and

general

finished products to create their kitchen

cabinets

. This video will walk through the process from start to finish as I'm working on this over the next few days hope you enjoy these are the kitchen cabinet doors I'm redoing for my clients house, they have been removed and they actually have new holes in them, you can see up close they are for soft close hinges I took them to my local woodworking and cabinet company and they were able to do it so not only did they get new

cabinets

but they also got the modern wonder of soft close hinges with their cabinets custom from 20 years ago so that's quite the update so to prep these cabinets I took them and gave them a lot of light and you can see they're still shiny even with our power sander.

This is not totally necessary. I'm just a lazy cleaner and I'll most likely remove the dirt with a quick sand to clean them, but that's totally up to you. I also work in a shop and I don't have to work in a house and do a lot. of clutter so you can see where, if you're in your own house, you don't want to use the sander inside, so if you take the doors down, make sure you label where they go and if you're going to use the same hinges. make sure you label which door that hinge came off of and if it came off from the top or bottom that way each hinge goes back on each door in the exact same place because over the years they warp and you know they bend . a little bit and you don't want to mix them up because your whole kitchen will end up looking crooked, so I gave this a light sanding of course, any holes, defects, anything like that that needed to be fixed, had already been fixed before.

I sanded it and then quickly washed it with a mixture of a splash of vinegar, warm water, and a couple drops of dish soap. If you put if you need to clean them more and you need to use more cleaning products, make sure you rinse that cleaning product very well and there's also a little buzz here that I keep eliminating. I don't know why, anyway, I have a squirrel distraction, yeah, so once your cabinets are down there, they'll be clean. I'm saying if you want to make them, then you can start

paint

ing and we're going to make this kitchen with a nice lonely French top.

It is one of my favorite colors, especially in the neutral world of kitchens. It is my favorite. Has a little. There's some kind of color on the can, it's gray, but it's not a blue gray. I'm not a big fan of the blue gray. I'm also not a fan of tanning, so it draws the line between both, which is it. why I love it so typically when I

paint

. I'll paint in a container, usually an old cottage cheese container, because it seems like I have a million of those lying around. You don't want to paint directly from your can because that's what I'll end up with.

The good thing is that all of this will dry out and as you use it it will dry out and crust over, but for this purpose I'm going to use it straight from the can. You'll also need one of these big, stately round brushes from any Slom, this is the big one, this is what I use on cabinets, even when I'm going for a smooth finish because as you'll see, it doesn't allow the goop to get into the corners here and there. Of course, the big one does it faster because it covers more area, which is why I love that one.

It's pretty simple. I'm going to quickly stir my can here because I haven't even done that yet. Today I'll give it a couple of swirls. not like a traditional latex paint that you would buy in a normal store, where you can see the color separately, but you still need to shake it a few times to get all the stuff coming across the page, so I got that and I got mine and I'm literally going to go to town to get some paint on that brush and I like to start in the cracks of the door and these big round brushes to see how I can do it like what I have.

I don't even have any more paint on my brush, still the first layer I like to be thinner just because I feel like I don't know it works better, that could be a total disaster, that's what I usually do, it's a thinner first. covering it doesn't hurt that's for sure and these big beautiful brushes you can see how they just cover areas and of course this paint goes a long way so I'm just putting a little bit on my brush at a time because I don't want to put a Pyle huge there and you can do this whole process with the cabinet door attached and paint right over the hinges.

Many people do that. I just did that in my mom's kitchen. It looks fabulous. I can see now that I have this inside part a little bit clean, there are no peas on any of the edges of the ridges because I didn't use too much paint. I don't need to go back with a secondary brush and clean this or anything like that it's all absorbed into this wonderful big round brush, that's why they're so stinky, so on the flat surfaces I'm going to put a little more paint on because you can spread it all over the place. and although I'm using this textured brush which is

general

ly designed so that more paint strokes show through.

If you work it in the direction of the grain, it softens enough, it doesn't. I guess I don't really like a flat brush. You can even a nice shade makes a really wonderful big flat brush there are really wonderful nice big flat brushes. I mean, these are not as rare as this world of these majestic round brushes. You can see it getting into that oat grain. you know there's no problem with it working there that way because the MOR can go in there the best coverage is going to be so that's that guy so far and then to do your kind of advantages I like to go with whatever the shortest of the wood grain, so generally in cabinets it is the top and bottom piece.

I'll do them first, so I'll go because you like it. I mean, you should paint in the direction of the wood grain. I mean, you might not hurt anything. if you don't, but that's what I've always done and been told and I lift it up here and get the sides again. This is your first

coat

so it's pretty light there and now I'm going to try them on and I hope I don't like going over this area that I already did because if you do that it dries quickly and if you go over it while it's a little sticky but it doesn't dry , it can get a little sticky, you can always get wet. brush if you find this is too quick a process for you, I wouldn't recommend thinning it just because it will take away the kind of strength, but if you thin it in a separate container, not in your paint field because it smells after a while, like you know that you close that painting and come back to you later, it's going to suck, so you see, I've done that kind of two edges there and I kind of check. the sides here it's good to go over the side so you don't have to pee rupees, let's see if I get this guy back, if I can get here for you and then you've already passed, guy See how your brush will mimic the line cut where you really the door is built and that works well and looks more natural and then I will do the same on this side.

I paint the cans on the wrong side. side apparently and there you have it, a layer will be made on this side. In fact, I'm going to put this door aside and I'm going to go ahead and I'm going to go and I have a whole kitchen to do with this so I'm going to go ahead and do the rest and I'll come back and put a second

coat

on you when they're dry. You can see I'm still playing with it, but it's not really necessary, you can look at it and see. I mean, I probably shouldn't go over that, but there's a little bit of hair for these natural brushes, but here we have the first layer of French linen, it's not full and it's fine, that's what it's supposed to do.

I could spend about a minute on this guy and usually when I paint them, I paint them on these little cabinet stands I have or on aunt's leftover paint cans. I hold them there, there you go, so I'll be. I'll be back in a minute, so I painted the front and back with a layer of my Aunt Sloane's French linen and now I'm going to go back and do the front again and the back again, so now I've done two layers of French. linen on the top and the back of everything so when you're done painting whatever paint you're going to apply to your piece then it's time to top coat it and I'm going to use a high performance top coat for general

finishes

on smooth finish. really like that, it seems to go on much better than what you would call a typical polyester and it has a nice sheen to it, the flat still has a sheen to it, it's not flat matte, they make a brand called flat out flat that is completely matte like the waxes, but it's not a brand for kitchen tables or cabinets, which is usually when I use the general

finishes

, so what you do with it is you don't shake it, but you do stir it.

The flatter you're using, so if you're doing a satin versus a semi-gloss or a gloss, the flatter the gloss, the more you have to remove the smoothing agent that's in it, so I open it up and I'm going to stir them up but never to shake them out because you don't want to add all those extra bubbles to your top layer and then you'll have two different brushes for it. This is actually the typical type of flat brush. Those foam brushes are a polyfoam brush, but this one is better quality. They make a different quality than these so try not to get the cheaper version of this black brush and then this is the cheapest chip brush I can use.

To wear this right now today to show you that you can do this. I usually do this step with a real polyester brush. Sometimes I skip the foam brush and do the poly brush all together, so whatever works for you, your first coat will be applied to a It's a bit like a trailing ear because the

chalk

paint is absorbing it, then the second and third layer, but try not to overlap them too much and I'm going to start with the edges here, although I give it a Big deal, wow, and I have some in a can, so I'm going to try to go and get some in there, but no brush it too much and it dries quickly and then you want to go back and while you have it. with a second brush it's almost like you remove the excess with a dry brush, so you take a cleaner brush and a drier brush and spread it out a little bit and then you move on, so I'm going to try not to go back to those areas that I just touched. keep putting it in a little bit and people apply this in different ways.

I've seen people apply it with rags too technically this way. The method I'm showing you is how the overall finish says to apply so everyone can do their own thing. Whatever you want, I'm just going to follow what the manufacturer recommends, so I'll sort of ignore that I'll still be hanging around here. I won't make you watch me do all the layers. I'll probably fast forward through all of that. You're going to want to do three layers of top coat. I'm actually going to make a glaze between layers 1 and 2, so our next step here is going to be a glaze, so I'll show you that, but if you're not going to make a glaze, wait until it's nice and dry and then you can continue here, you need to sand, which I'll show you up to here so you know that you have accumulated areas of excess, that's where this other second brush.

It kind of comes in because your one brush is full so you can't get it to come out right and you're going to have to lightly sand between each coat so you know every once in a while if something happens you can sand it again. but of course we're trying to avoid that, if you know something happens on your top layer, we see that there's a little bit of hair that's probably going to stand out, but you know, if we can avoid that, it would be better on these flat surfaces. you try to make big brushstrokes.

Oops, I have hair and you can overlap them slightly. I would say 25 to 30 percent overlap and you want to have a good amount of product there to move around. I'm not trying to make it as thin as possible, but you're also trying to remove anything that looks white, so now I'm going to quickly go back with my dry brush here and just soften it up a little bit. a little bit more in these kind of areas that have a little bit more than that should help absorb it and you'll be able to see where this is to do all that so I'll tip you now. that these types of areas are done, you see here, this center is done.

I've got a little bit of hair there, that's not good and now I'm going to go around all the outside edges as well and let it dry and then flip it over and do the other one. side and then I'll come back to show you how to make the frosting, so now we're ready to do the frosting process and I made a close up video for you on this, you can really see because we're going to get Just on that, with very few things, we're going to use Van Dyck Brown on the overall finishing glaze effects and then we're also going to need your extender and the reason is that the extender helps these things move longer otherwise.

This dries very quickly, so I'm going to put some on the lid of a plastic ice cream bucket here just because I don't like using paper to put it on and I feel like the classic doesn't soak it up. up and it doesn't push it or melt it so I remember a coat of my high performance top coat here and I'm going to want that coat there because that allows the polish to not soak into the paint instantly someone put some extender here on my tray and I'm going to dip my brush in it. I'm just using some kind of shitty chip brush here because I'm going topull and normally I would put the Van Dyck Brown in there too, but right now I'm still in a fog of painting all of this and I'm just making this door to show you here, so get one. a little bit of my brown color in another part of the container and I'll go in with it.

I'm going to push it into all these cracks. I'm trying to start seeing it come out and this is a solid grain, you know, it's an oak. grain and that tends to soak things so I'm trying to be very careful not to get it all over. I want it pushed up on this little top of the Ridge, but I don't want it either. all on the face, I absolutely don't want it on this second layer, maybe I should use a better brush, it's always a problem. I love my good brushes, but sometimes I'm a little lazy, so I'm putting it on that little secondary layer. on this door, every door will be different, every project will be different where you put it, you want to be in a place where you know dirt will accumulate naturally over the years and then you will take them like a blue shop towel, I take any type of rag without fluff and I'll move on.

I'm going to wipe it off the main surface here just to make sure it doesn't dry out there and then I'll start going in. and remove the excess from my edges and sometimes you can see where there's like a little haze, take a little bit more extender, you can wipe it off, I don't know how long you'll actually be able to do that. but just a little tip, you might be able to squeeze in a little bit more white time there and really this isn't meant to be kind of perfect looking, it's meant to age it, it's meant to be like, you know, it's a polish, so I.

I'm going to tilt this here to see if you can see it on the bottom, there's just a little bit of brown on those edges, just a little bit of age, some people would do it, you know, all over the place and it would get. in the grain or they could do it on the edges, that's totally fine, this particular person is just going on these very small edges, so once the glaze is dry, you can move on to the next step that you're going to say lightly. both sides and whether you put the polish on or not, this is still basically the next step after the first layer of top coat, then you sand lightly, so this is a 220 altra flex sanding pad, it's flexible, it's like a sponge, it stinks quite a bit.

I love this for this sanding situation, but you can also use a piece of sandpaper, but don't use 220 sandpaper, so I think you use 320 or 420 grit. This is actually pretty smooth, it's not very coarse at all. absolute and what you want. What you're looking for is a fine powder on all your stuff and you go with the grain a little bit, you apply light pressure, but you're not a ton, you're not trying to like it, take off the top layer, you're just roughing it up. Bring up that top surface and I know myself included, I'm tempted to skip this step because it's a corner step, but really what can happen over time is the layers will peel off in sheets if they don't have good adhesion. so you're going to put all this work into it it's worth taking the time to sand between layers of top coats so you just go around and you know you hit a little bit of white in there you kind of get oh you can feel. it's like butter and suddenly I'm working with the grain, a little unsure if that's necessarily a total requirement, it's when you sand it, hey, the dye stops so it's just a habit that I make and you can see I have this position. to lazy susan.

I had a little video showing that if it's like that, you can get to all the parts very easily, you know, clean it up and move it around, that's what you really know, do the whole line. I make them and it creates this type of white. Powder of this color is a little harder to see there, but you can see it with my fingers, that's good, come in here if you want. I'm most worried about large, flat surfaces, but I don't know why, so I want to hold it down with a pre-made towel adhesive cloth with blue lips would work great.

Some people like to have a slightly damp cloth to wipe it off to make sure there's no extra dust residue left and then I'll flip it over and do that. the eggs that you saw, I did the edges and I'm going to do the exact same thing for the back, where we just have one layer of top coat. Now we didn't have any frosting back here and I said we only had the frosting a little bit. a little bit in one corner, but even if you had full polish all over it, it would still be the same steps, so we have that guy, we clean them all up, we'll set our sandpaper aside and we're I'm going to do the next coat of the top layer.

I went to the large chevron here because that's what I had for this big project because this is part of someone's kitchen. In fact, I was making this video for you while I'm also working on why there are days in between and you see my clothes change my hair. I change it every day, so I'll give this a good shake. Remember not to shake your top layer, you don't want air bubbles. and when I start doing a lot of work on this, I'll put it in a separate container, but for now we'll just get out of here, so I have a new foam brush because my other head I'll use a Once I'm done with all these cabinets, but that's the wonder about these brushes and I'm just going to apply a little bit there, your second coat, second and third coat are very different and much better, you know, it doesn't have to soak in that

chalk

paint and so it's a much smoother situation, it glides very differently, just wonderful, so let me put it all in here, try not to work too much again, but still, take it everywhere, yeah, I mean. all these edges and I have my other little chip brush here to come back to and remove things.

I've seen some people do this with a rag, especially on the second and third layer, and for this purpose I thought I'd keep saying no and if it causes you more things to learn or more techniques, then you go back like you did with your first layer, but you will find that it is much faster because you are going over another layer. of these things and that's exactly what you want so now I have this Center ready and I'm going to go and here's the wonder that the Lazy Susan can do that so yeah if you can find an old Lazy Susan at a sale garage or I know I bought this one at IKEA for, you know, 10 15 dollars, really, you know, very cheap and mine I actually covered the paper because I painted it nice before I needed it for this criminal, so I'm going to continue Go ahead and be nice.

Be gentle, go back with the grain and go along this edge now and I stir it periodically whether I have my top layer in a cup or the container it comes in. I stir it periodically, still, you know, it's flat, especially when the floor is, the flattening agents tend to sink to the bottom and of course I want an even shine on all my doors. I don't want one door to look brighter than another, so I keep shuffling oh, lazy Susan. Okay and we're getting close to finishing on this side. When this side is done, we'll let it dry for a couple of hours and then we'll turn it over and do the other side and I'll come back to sand the top coat with you again. and put in our third coat, so here we have our finished door, just to recap, there are two coats of ami Sloane French Linen, then there's a coat of overall finishes, high performance top coat in flat finish and then there's the overall finishes Van Dyck.

Brown polish done on those edges here, you can see it, then lightly sanded with a 220 grit sanding pad over another coat of the high performance top coat, repeating it again and another coat of the high performance top coat, so two . coats of paint three coats of a top coat two sands and a glaze so yes, this method is quite a bit more work, but in the end look at these beautiful doors you have here, you can see them, they have a wonderful uniform shine throughout. a little bit of antique - um, it just ends up with a really beautiful deep color and as soon as I finish and hang this whole kitchen, there will be pictures of the whole kitchen on our website in the personalization section in the home, it should be really very beautiful .

I hope you have a great day and be sure to share and subscribe to our YouTube channel and visit us on Facebook and our website is www.pevs.com.