Build an Ultra-Realistic River in the Alaskan Wilderness – Realistic Scenery Vol.21Jun 10, 2021
Al and welcome to another amazing tutorial. My name is Luke and in this video I'll show you how to recreate an amazing scene like this, complete with the bear hunt and the salmon swimming underwater. You'll be surprised how simple and effective it really is. so let's not waste any more time and start
building all the good models, start with a plan and the plan for this model is to take up the shelf behind my work table so with a couple of quick measurements I'm ready to cut the plinth. using some scrap particle board I had lying around for the base, but any rigid wood or foam base would work, however, keep in mind that the resin used for the water will heat up as it cures, so that a wooden base is probably a safer option once.
The base is being cut and after doing a test fit on the shelf just to make sure it fits, I start by laying out the topography of the base. It's just a rough sketch to get an idea of the character design I'm using. for the diorama there is this bear and a scale photographer actually, which I will talk about a little later, but all my landscaping decisions focus on where these two details will be placed. The terrain form is first constructed using expanded polystyrene. This is great because it is cheap and easy to cut, although it can be tricky when trying to cut out strange shapes.
More Interesting Facts About,
build an ultra realistic river in the alaskan wilderness realistic scenery vol 21...
Using a tool like a knife to cut hot wire foam creates much less mess in these scenarios; However, a good sharp blade is also perfect for quick and simple cuts like this. Starro goo is perfect for attaching the foam to the base of the diorama, it gets tacky quickly and doesn't take long to dry so I can continue
building without much delay and starry goo is ideal for gluing one piece of foam to another large part of this model. will be the rock features along the
riverbank and in the
riverbed. I ended up making a bunch of Woodland Scenic's rocks and didn't use plaster of paris mixed with a thick thin mix before pouring the plaster.
I'll make sure to pre-moisten the molds. This helps the plus get into all the small spaces and prevents bubbles. I'm not exactly sure what rock castings I'll use so I just make a large batch of various rocks that I can try out on the diorama then tapping the molds on the bench will help dislodge any bubbles from the face of the mold and again help so that the plus enters all the small spaces. Also, if you are using the Noch rock molds, be sure to keep the packaging as it also functions as a support for the mold, ensuring that the rock mold lies flat while the plaster cures after approximately 4 hours.
The rocks are removed from the molds and can be tested in the diorama. At this stage it's just a guessing game, trying different combinations and positions until you find something. You are satisfied once you find something that looks good, I remove the rocks and place them aside in a way that makes it easy for me to put them back in the same position, then the sculptor's modeling mixture is used to cover the surface. of the diorama and building the terrain is a Fire Burress plaster mix which is perfect for filling in and building the ground level there is quite a bit of this when I build dioramas so I usually buy it in bulk it is mixed with water. until it's a thick paste, try to avoid adding too much water because we want the square to be able to hold its shape.
Now we simply hit it on the diorama and start spreading it with our hands creating a subtle Xand Hills ripple throughout the model. I continue to spread it out and smooth it out with my fingers until I get a look I'm happy with. I then add the rocks, first soaking them well with water, this ensures they adhere properly to the plaster. We just placed the rocks. It is pushed down into the plaster and mixed with more plaster mixture. More plaster mix is added as needed and I continue to smooth the plaster with my fingers as it begins to set.
It is not at all necessary for it to be perfectly smooth as it will eventually be covered with dirt and grass texture. but I like to leave it reasonably smooth in case I want to add a dirt path or path because in that scenario you'll need a nice, smooth surface. Any plaster left on the rock detail can be washed off with a stiff brush and a little water, you want to make sure you do this before the plaster hardens completely now for the river bed detail, there are a variety of textures, some forests, the landscape is good, tell us some thick dirt and some sand is used for the river bed to paste this.
I use Mod Podge matte. and isopropyl alcohol, the surface is painted with the glue directly from the bottle, this will help the texture of the earth to adhere to the sloping banks of the river. Nexen woodland Scenic's fine tell us is applied over the riverbed and around rocks. This layer is followed by the Coarse Soil Texture that was dug up in the backyard. It has some larger rocks and pebbles mixed in. Sand is now used to mix everything together, filling in all the spaces between the previous textures. This layer helps tie everything together to make it look like rocks. are embedded in the soil, this process continues along the riverbed using the same steps until everything is covered.
You can see that there are even some tiny twigs mixed in with the dirt, which just adds another layer of detail. Any excess texture is removed with the brush. of the unwanted areas and this is followed with that spray of isopropyl alcohol and then a good amount of Mod Podge diluted with water, mix the stage glue mixture, one part matte Mod Podge with three parts water and apply a few drops of dish soap. enough to ensure that it absorbs all the texture we applied once the glue has had time to dry. I tidy up the edges of the model by removing excess plaster and dirt texture that is stuck to the outer edges of the diorama, coloring the surface is a multi-step process involving a variety of colors, a raw sienna wash is used to paint the river bank and the surface of the ground above the river, all of this will be covered later with more dirt texture, however it is applied to hide any white plaster. which can be shown later, next you mix a couple of different browns and a black wash to color the river bed, the raw sienna is added to the river bank and around some of the rocks that will be sticking out of the water as the wash There is still Wet brown washes applied intensively over the entire surface of the river.
I used two types of brown to vary the color a little. Now the black was lightly applied to simulate the deeper areas of the river bed. Because the washes are wet, they will blend together as they begin to dry giving a nice transition between the colors now for the rock. Vallejo Neutral Gray is used as a base coat for the rocks, applied liberally to the gypsum rocks and also dry brushed onto the surface of the river bed, as well as highlighting all the rocks. that make up the surface of the riverbed, then a much darker gray wash is applied over the entire surface which will settle into all the little cracks and crevices of the rock work, bringing out all those intricate details, highlighting the edges of the rock work , some Vallejo cold.
The white is dry brushed onto the surface, which helps highlight the sharp edges and lines of the rocks, adding another level of detail. The final step is to reapply some of the brown and black washers to the river bed, adding color and depth to the scene above. lost in the previous step when painting the rocks I make sure it's a very thin wash so it doesn't cover the rocks we just painted and it's just a fly around the larger rock work of the river bed and along the shore from the river now for the rest of the soil texture, this is basically some soil collected from the backyard, then sifted to a very fine grade and some beige colored slurry added to help lighten the color .
The way it is applied is by filling the lid of an old spray can and holding an old sock firmly across the lid you apply a little Mod Podge over the surface anywhere the soil will be applied avoiding working with rocks. The glue helps the soil stick to the sloping terrain. The glue tends to dry quite quickly, so I only work in small sections. The next moment, the soil is spread evenly over the surface. I also make sure to allow some of the land texture to extend over the banks of the river towards the center of the river as it gradually fades into the rocky surface of the river bed, this will help create a nice transition of the land. from the river bank to the bottom of the river bed.
Excess soil is removed from the top of the rocks and gently moved to help the soil mix between the rocks on the river bank, if necessary additional soil can be added. it is added to the edge as desired and to get a nice natural transition and just like we did with the river bed, all of that is sealed by first applying isopropyl alcohol and then a little bit of the scenic glue mixture, the trees I will use for this diorama. homemade pine trees there is a separate video with a step by step guide so that you too can create these amazing trees.
The link for the video can be found in the description or just check out the tree playlist on my YouTube channel page one by one. The tree is tested in place on the diorama and once I am happy with the position I use a drill that is approximately the same size as the trunk and make a hole for the tree, the mounting pin is removed from the base of the tree and the trunk is pushed into the hole, this process is repeated until the diorama is filled with trees, then small pegs with numbers are made and used to replace each tree with the corresponding number on the foam board, that way This way the location of each tree is numbered and when it is time to permanently attach the trees, they will be placed back in the correct locations.
The first layer of vegetation is the static grass in this model. I used a mix of medium and light green senex forest along with some six and seven millimeter mini early fall nature. grass fibers The hopper of the static grass applicator is filled so it is ready to use in the forest. Scenic Static Cling Glue is applied to all areas where you wish to apply the grass. A small brush will help spread the glue and give you a non-uniform border between the areas where the static grass will be applied doing your best to prevent the glue from getting on the rocks now all we have to do is turn on the grass applicator static and wave it over areas of glue that the grass on the sloping edge may need.
Cut vertically with the comb, as it tends to protrude at a 90-degree angle from the surface. A vacuum cleaner with a stocking on the end is used to pick up all the loose grass fibers so they can be used again later on another model while the glue is being applied. was still sticky, a second layer of natural mini grass was applied over the top of the first layer of grass we just applied to add a bit of color variation and then the same process of stripping the grass fibers was additionally used and vacuum up the excess.
Color and texture are added with various woodland cynicals and jambe of thick and fine grass along with some dried leaves that were put in a blender and blended into various textures to simulate dead leaves and bark on the ground. The various colors spread across the surface of the model on these steeper slopes, you may need a small drop of glue to help the textures adhere. There's no right or wrong way to do it, just keep in mind the locations of the tree trunks and gradually build different ones. colors and textures of the vegetation once you have everything in place, it is permanently fixed by applying the mixture of alcohol and scenic glue.
Now we can put the trees back into their assigned places for gluing. I used a drop of forest scenic static. turns and helps blend them into the surrounding terrain. Some of the mixed leaf texture is used around the base of each tree. part of the forest. Finally, the Scenic foliage and heather patch are used to add more trees and a little more density to the back edge of the The diorama is very simple to use, it can be separated and used to make trees quickly and easily, and Leftover pieces can also be used for small bushes, and a small hole may or may not be needed, but for larger ones it is necessary.
You will probably need a hole to glue the twig with its drop of glue. The photographer, the player and the salmon, which is a war swimming against the current, were downloaded and 3D printed. The photographer was purchased online at CG Trader Comm and the Grizzly and several fish models were downloaded. free from thingiverse.com, the 3D printer used to print these models was the new printerNova 3d's 3D elfin is perfect for printing complex models like this and works equally well with larger prints, plus it's very easy to use and comes fairly level. from the factory making setup much quicker once the models have been printed, washed and cured, painted as you would paint any other plastic or metal model and then ready to use.
There are some excellent videos here on YouTube on how to print with Resin 3D Printers, so if you're thinking about getting started these are worth checking out. The salmon will need to be at various depths throughout the river so the best way to achieve this that I have found is to create small stems made with clear epoxy and have a salmon glued to the end of each stem once the epoxy is cured it will be Remove from baking paper, trim the stem length to the desired length and stick the fish to the river bed with a drop of super glue like the fish. the bear is glued to the rock with a dot of super glue and the photographer is attached with a micro marking detail tack so I can move it if I want.
Later, before pouring the resin, I roughly paint the edge of the diorama with black paint. It doesn't have to be perfect and you only need to paint the edge just below the river bed to create the river dam. I'm using a PVC foam board that still has the protective plastic covering, although you can basically use anything as long as it's flat and has a layer of clear packing tape between it and the resin, the smoother the surface. , it is best to attach each section of the wall to the diorama using a bead of wood glue that covers the entire perimeter of the river, just make sure it is a continuous bead of glue with no gaps between the wall sections that are pressed firmly against each other. the diorama or on all three sides, in addition to wood glue, hot glue is used.
It is also used along the edge to ensure that no resin is spilled on the table. Once all the edges are sealed and after the wood glue has had a couple of hours to dry, we can begin to prepare to pour the resin for this model I'm using. AAA Composite Deep Cast Clear Epoxy in Australia. It is the same type of resin that is used to make wood and River tables. It is perfect for deep legs and has a low curing temperature, which is especially perfect for building models like this. The resin is mixed at a ratio of two to one by volume, calculating exactly how much resin you will need can be a challenge, especially when the surface is undulating with protruding rock features;
However, if you find that you don't have enough resin, it's pretty easy to mix up a second pour quickly. and add it on top before it starts curing because this resin has a two hour working time to color the resin. I'm using a mix of blue and burnt umber. These pigments are created specifically for dyeing epoxy resin and a little goes a long way. This way, make sure you add color in small amounts if you want to add more color, you can; However, if you add too much color, you will need to start over. I mix the color into each cup of Part A resin and then mix them together. two parts together leaves me with a cloudy brown color with a bluish tint once mixed I pour it into our larger mixing container and leave it for a while to allow the bubbles to burst now I'm ready to start mixing I add Part B and Start stirring very gently.
This resin has a very long working time so I make sure to stir it nice and slow doing my best to avoid introducing unwanted bubbles. I spend about 10 minutes stirring slowly until completely mixed. Now comes the fun part. Pour the resin. This is the part where I really hope the dam is sealed properly. The last thing I want is to see resin slowly dripping from under the diorama. Some bubbles are inevitable, but they are easily removed using a blowtorch. to pop them just make sure you don't accidentally set your trees on fire if need be you can push the resin around to make sure it fills all the little spaces between the rocks along the embankment with a stick now that it has been poured and there are definitely no leaks I cover the model and leave it for about 24 hours while the resin cures, you can already see it starting to transform.
Each piece of PVC foam board can now be removed and it is now that I can really start to imagine the final look of the diorama here you can see that the foam board had a slightly textured surface to fix this I will have to put it back just a little bit starting with 400 sandpaper and gradually working up to 1200 sandpaper. You'll know it's ready when you can see reflections in the resin, you'll also want to remove the lip along the edge of the resin, as the resin It is not fully cured yet so it should be fairly easy to use a sharp knife to remove the raised edge according to the instructions on this resin it takes about 24 hours for initial curing and then up to 10 days to reach full cure and bring back that flawless shine along the riverbank.
I mixed a small amount of light envirotec, this is what I normally use. to pour rivers, however, in a deep river, a pour like this would have cured too hot and probably caused cracks. The epoxy is brushed over the edge of the river until there is a thin, even coat across the edge. You will need a cup of isopropyl alcohol to wash the brush and clean the resin and, just like we did with the River main, the bubbles are removed with a blowtorch. Now you can see how pretty the border looks if you've seen any of my previous River tutorials.
You know I love using Mod Podge gloss and my airbrush to create the waves. A thin layer of Mod Podge is applied in sections along the surface of the river and then the airbrush is used to create the small waves. Work in small sections. At the same time, while the glue dries fairly quickly and moves slowly along the surface of the river until it is completely covered, it is allowed to dry completely before moving on to the next step. White water is added with some Woodland Scenic water ripples and soft snow-like flakes in the ripples. The product is a thick, transparent paste that dries completely and the snowflakes add color and volume.
The two are mixed creating a white paste. The white paste applies anywhere you would expect white water, so I apply it around the rocks and let it trail. As it gradually fades, using a stick and brush seem to do a good job of removing the paste randomly. I also put some extra white water around the bear's paws to further blend the white water into the rest of the river, I added a second coat of Mod Podge gloss over the surface to create more ripples over all the water areas. white and the last little detail was adding some bright white paint very sparingly around the larger areas of white. water to create a sort of feathered look between the clear water and the turbulent water and lastly I added a border using an old 1 millimeter sheet of translucent plastic by tracing the contours of the river bed on the plastic sheet after cutting the sheet and give it a test fit I painted it black and glued it to the sides of the model and that completes this amazing diorama that will have a new home behind my workbench.
It was a lot of fun to build and really catches your eye, especially being able to see a glimpse of the underwater scene with the salmon swimming against the current. I hope you enjoyed watching it and if you're looking for another awesome video, try this one, it's another one of my favorites. Greetings and thanks for watching.
If you have any copyright issue, please Contact