Anthony Bourdain A Cook's Tour Season 2 Episode 7: The BBQ Triangle

(soft music) Welcome to my world. (upbeat music) Two snails, get on, Frisee. - Two green salads. - Well. Lamb Chops. Steak, fries. Shouldn't you be doing something? Two whole steaks and one pepper steak. Come on, make dessert. Chocolate cake, please. As a

cook

, tastes and smells are my memories. And now I'm looking for new ones. So I'm leaving New York City in hopes of having some epiphanies around the world. And I am willing to do everything possible to achieve it. I look for extremes of emotion and experience. I'll try anything, I'll risk everything, I have nothing to lose.

My fellow Americans, what is our only culinary contribution to the world that is as original as jazz, baseball, and rock and roll? That's right, barbecue. The ribs detach from the bone. It's all ours. Not even the French can do it. So what do I know about barbecue? Yeah, that sums it up for me. Good evening and thank you for tuning in. (static) I'm kidding, I'm kidding. Actually, it turns out there's a debate over barbecue more heated than the last presidential election. There is simply no element of barbecue that is not controversial. What could be controversial about barbecue?

The

cook

ing apparatus, the meat, the fuel, the

season

ings and, the most elusive thing, the chef's know-how. I grew up in the country sleeping on a tree branch 30 feet off the ground. It is natural that now I end up cutting down trees and cooking with them. So what does all this madness add up to? It's the elusive barbecue

triangle

. Three regions of the United States are fighting a deadly battle over who does it best. Kansas City? Kansas City is the barbecue capital of the world. Texas? There's nothing better than Texas-style barbecue, but, you know, make sure you like it.

And North Carolina. Everyone has their special secret, so we have ours. Fear not, I, your intrepid host, will investigate. I probably shouldn't wear my white linen suit when I eat here. - Yes. First assignment, Kansas City. Serious, serious, serious people. Kansas City is a micro abyss of the barbecue world. While other regions specialize in specific meats, in Kansas City they cook anything anyway. If it moves, roast it. One thing I've learned is that good barbecue isn't always pretty. Welcome to Oklahoma Joe's. Gas station, liquor store, convenience store, some of the best barbecue in this country. If you want to get to the bottom of something, start at the top.

So I set up a dinner date with Carolyn Wells, executive director of the Kansas City Barbecue Society. What should I order here? My favorite item on the menu is the Carolina Pork Sandwich, which is a pulled pork sandwich with salad on top and served with Bubba sauce. But their ribs are great. And I think they're cooking up some burnt ends just for you. Burnt ends, beef brisket. What is a burnt end? A burnt end is the charred part of the breast after cooking that they used to throw away. Only in Kansas City, to my knowledge, had they really become menu items.

Here they collect them all week to be able to offer them one night during the week. Oh, wow. Now, this is finger-licking good. Spice up the ying-yang, it's great. So, do barbecue nerds exist? Absolutely. Complete with the plastic objects in the pocket, with the meat thermometers sticking out. Who makes the best barbecue? Well, Kansas City, of course. Hmm. A bold statement. In order to properly evaluate, I need to find someone in the trenches. A fellow chef. Ah, Sunday afternoon in Kansas. We're here to talk barbecue with world-renowned Kansas City barbecue grandmaster Paul Kirk, known as the Baron of Barbecue.

I'm looking for that ultimate barbecue. I have never found it. Paul Kirk is like a prize-winning boxer turned manager. He won many international competitions and now trains novices. I decided to investigate, even if it means I have to do a little work. Maybe my hands get sticky. It's apron time for you. Jesus, am I getting fat? Well, what I have here, three breasts. I want to know which one you would choose and why. Like the feel and look of this guy. Nice layer of fat, good shape confirmation and I hope it's a good mix of fat and lean.

So how did I do it? Very good. I'll show you how I cut them out. And then I'll let you cut out the other one. I'm going to try to reduce the fat to between a quarter and 1/8 of an inch. - Now you can do it. - Alright. It's time to show Paul some classically trained technique. I'm going to get some of this fat off. I know what I'm doing, I'm backing off. Look at me eating, it's a good thing. Stop me. Alright, boss, how did it go? It hurts, doesn't it? Okay, this is a knife, not a saw. (grunts) You go like that, you forgot the most important part.

Right, the right angle. So, it's not a complete disgrace, but it's definitely rookie status. Okay, maybe I've been out of the kitchen too long. But not very good. Okay, let's

season

them. Seasoning salt, celery salt, onion salt, garlic salt. That is a basic problem. Now I tell my students: add your signature. Choose three seasonings. Some examples of condiments that people could use without being silly would be cilantro? - Cilantro? Oh. (Laughs) - I saw it in your book. - No? - Oregano, cumin, all spices. I mastered the doll action better than I did. Now that I've shown Paul a few things, it's time to put the brisket in the pot.

Ah, there it is. Now, how many hours are we talking about? We're talking probably, since it's certified Angus, probably 14. (scratches log) 14 hours? I don't think we'll see grilled brisket on Iron Chef anytime soon. One of the best things about barbecue is that it is the absolute antithesis of fast food. It's 15 hours. Nice and moist, juicy. That is beautiful. Look, here's a nice smoke ring. Good color, good penetration. - It's also humid. - Yes, it's beautiful. And there's bread, make yourself a sandwich. Will serve. Sauce or not sauce? One with sauce, one without sauce. It's simple. It is perfect.

Try a little with the sauce. Difficult decision. Oh, it is, it really is, yes. This is so good that I'm ready to vote for Paul Kirk for the White House. But it's not all about the chef, right? This doesn't look like a garden grill. - It is not like this? - No. Now, that's an $8,000 pot. I designed this and Klose Pits in Texas built it for me. One thing I will say about David is that, first of all, he goes through all the different wells. Look at the workmanship. So, we are talking about real craftsmanship here.

Just when you think you've seen it all, $8,000 barbecues? This will require further studies. Looks like I'm going to Houston, Texas. (country music) From Kansas to Texas. You would think there are some hard and fast rules, the individual way they do things in certain states. But I must tell you that I am getting quite confused. But one thing that doesn't confuse me is who manufactures, who builds, designs and builds the best wells in the universe? This is the man, Dave Klose. And what is that screeching noise in the background? That's about creating... Just a bunch of guys making metal stuff, you know.

It is not safe around a welder. (metal scraping) No joke. This place looks like an

episode

of Monster Garage in a bowling alley all in one. If you think a well is just a hole in the ground, think again. You know, in fact I think we make some of the best designed and quality wells in the world. And I won't stop until I've done something with everything on planet Earth. You don't want to park a car next to us, believe me. Okay, so you're looking for a BBQ grill and you show up here. Dave is willing to design a custom pit for your individual needs.

Is your military kitchen running out of appliances? Is this bulletproof glass? Yes, this is a telephone booth that was in the war in Sarajevo three years ago. These and the car pits, where you build a car, a police car, on a rotisserie or something. The danger of that is that you never know. You don't know if the glass is going to explode. Maybe you're tough on appliances and need a more durable model. This is solid. You make solid objects. I can actually shoot a .357 Magnum with this. - You've tried. - Yes I have. I shot clean inside.

I would do that. Maybe you're a hungry cosmonaut looking for a close encounter with Dave. I was working at NASA for years. NASA administrator a woman. I told him I wanted a hole in the moon. She said, "Why?" "Why do you want a hole in the moon?" I said because when the Russians or anyone else lands, I want them to see the world's first Klose interplanetary grid. Maybe you want a simpler model, but equipped with all the extras. Gas injection with side burner. Very small fireplace. Adjustable fire grate, ashtray. You may be thinking, "I have too many kitchen appliances." "I need to simplify." This is a 14 foot beer bottle.

On the neck is an actual 3 gallon keg with a beer tap right here. Just take this home too, set it aside, turn it on, get out a couple cases of beer. The whole block will close and there will be a party. No matter what your needs are, you'll never leave the parking lot without taking a test drive. These are quail stuffed with sausage and wrapped in bacon. These things are spectacular. This is the good thing. This is my signature dish. These are actually eight- to 10-count tiger shrimp stuffed with stone crab meat, wrapped with tender mallet chicken, wrapped in maple-smoked bacon, and soaked in Cabernet Sauvignon overnight.

This boy is full of surprises. I thought he was going to bring out some charred hot dogs or something. This is an amazing dish. You can't screw this up. If you do it wrong, it's amazing. If you do it right, he'll rip off the top of your head. Test it. Damn, look at that. Oh Dave, this is amazing. But you have to try this quail. Oh, you're not kidding. This is spectacular. Oh it is beautiful. This has to be illegal somewhere. Oh yeah, that's too good. I think I'm on the Atkins diet. That's like all meat, right?

I haven't seen a vegetable in three or four days. The man knows how to cook. It's not just food, it's not just a lifestyle, it's a calling and... It's a disease. Well, at least I didn't try Cobra Heart, you know? I heard you tried... I heard you almost got eaten by a lion in Africa. No, that's next season. So, Texans can barbecue. But can Texans barbecue? Dave says he knows a place that makes some of the best ribs and brisket in the country. So, yeah, where are we, Dave? Yes, we're at Roy Burn's BBQ. He's been here about 30, 35 years.

Some of the best barbecue in Houston. I just want Tony to try it and see how true Southern hospitality and quality lasts, you know? Southern hospitality? Gosh, it looks like a decent sneeze would wipe this place out. That doesn't seem to stop customers. People come from all over Houston, from the southwest side, from the east side, from everywhere. They drive through traffic to get here and eat this barbecue. That's definitely an endorsement. If you're willing to suffer for a good meal... And it probably has a sauce that it wouldn't give up if you put a gun to its head.

Does anyone have a gun? (laughs) Despite appearances, Burn's BBQ is a large operation. They have a sizable staff and deep bones filled with slow-cooked ribs and briskets. The people there will be there for another five or six hours. My choice is the ribs. I love ribs. That's my specialty. According to Roy, the secret to his barbecue is in the fuel. Slow burning oak. Post Oak, that's the secret to doing the slow thing. Hey, I'm sold. But you know what, enough food for two is enough for us. - That is so cute. - Beautiful. OMG this smells amazing.

Very good, thank you sir. Do you want sauce? - Do you want sauce? - Yes please. Thanks, okay, great. We will see you up front. Thank my Lord. We have two sample dishes here. Oh, that brisket is good, man. Their ribs are delicious, man. Try some of that sauce. Yes, believe me, I've been mopping. Now that is a good meal. You have a mustard-based potato salad with pickles, it goes with barbecue. What they call asymmetrical flavors. Everyone I've met in Kansas City and everyone I've met in Texas is (bleep) damn intellectuals. I'm always the stupidest guy in town, everywhere I've been so far.

Well, I didn't pass third grade for nothing. They were the worst nine years of my life. It's an amazing rib. Roy really understands the business. The main thing is that I tell my clients to come back and tell me if it's good or bad. Then I start looking for ways to change. Good. Well, you know, when you see cars lined up on the street, it's a good sign, right? Limousines and Cadillacs will stop here. Man, you never know who's coming out. Burn's place may not get a 30 for Zagat decor anytime soon, but Roy has mastered the golden rule.

Make good food. So if you're on a quiet country road in Houston and you see a huge line, get in it. Maybe you can taste one of America's tastiest secrets. My barbecue research so far has introduced me to award-winning pit masters andto world famous barbecue spots. But most of America gets its barbecue in one place: its own backyard. In this case, we're in barbecue expert John Lonergan's backyard. This is a strange and exotic environment for me. I have this overwhelming need to put on an apron that says "World's Best Dad" or "I'm With a Stupid Man." I need a new apron.

Nice and quiet. Nobody to bother you. Peaceful. Phone does not ring. This is the essence of barbecue. Sitting in the backyard, waiting for the ribs to cook, drinking beer, of course. I think those ribs are almost done too. Do you want to go ahead and open it up and take a look? Of course. Rubbed with mustard and spices, these ribs are cooked for four hours. John pours the mixture he made with Coca-Cola and brown sugar. Oh yes, that's delicious. And an hour later, the perfect ribs. I'll bring out the plate and let you do the honors and cut some ribs.

Oh yeah. We don't cook much on this show. I'm actually touching food in this

episode

. - Well, you know, it's good. - Get to work. With all that beer you drink, you should get some exercise. Thank you. You are welcome. (Laughing) So, we're ready to go eat. Excellent. Alright. And we have some salad. Salad? Wow. I've forgotten what that is. I have something for you here. Too kind of you. (laughs) Well, I kind of got my wish, didn't I? Well, I got this going, okay? Yes sir. There is a knife for you. See if you remember how to cut the ribs.

If I don't stop working with food on this show, people will start thinking I'm a real chef. - I'm ready to eat. - Me too. If I remember correctly, in the vaguely remembered past, the last time I saw one of these, I think it was called salad. Dig. (stutters) It literally falls off the bone. It's terrible, let me take that away from you. Keep your eyes on your own plate, friend. When the meat and bone separate so easily, you know you have some good ribs. A true American experience. Real barbecue in the backyard. This is the history of barbecue in a nutshell, you know?

Now I can truly say I've been everywhere. Barbecue burn. Culinary danger of the southern United States. Happily, I find myself at the last stop of the barbecue

triangle

. Where we are? North Carolina, birthplace of barbecue. Where most people will tell you it all started. (pigs squealing) Okay, what's the difference between Texas, Kansas City, and North Carolina barbecue? North Carolina is all about pig, pig, pig, pig, pig, pig, pig. And when you talk about Eastern North Carolina, you're talking nose to tail, everything but the squeak. During my travels, I heard about a place called Mitchell's, where they pride themselves on specializing in whole hog barbecue.

Alright, let's go, now let's go to the hole. I'm introduced to owner Ed Mitchell, who promises to clear up the entire operation. First step, trim the pork. We'll let Tony cut off his feet. I'm thinking? I'm thinking about an episode of The Sopranos I saw a few weeks ago. (murmurs) blade. You're getting good at this, huh? Every once in a while we meet one like me, who is somewhat healthy. He has many fatty glands. A lot of actors in Hollywood pay to have that done to them, you know, while they're still alive. (laughs) Now, this one has all the good things in it. - Language. - Language. - The brains. - The brains. - Eyeballs. - The eyeballs. - Thymus gland. - Yes.

This is good to eat. Now she is ready to continue. Give him a slap. She now she takes a walk back. That is really a symbol of greeting. Because she has truly made someone happy. My old gym teacher used to do that to me a lot. He's in jail now. He now he received the spanking from him. He's one of the guys now. Now you're an official grill, we've got you. Alright. It's time to cook the pork. We let it cook for eight to 10 hours. We definitely don't like to cook them anything below that. You guys want to get some.

Oh Pretty. And to me, that's real barbecue. The pit crew gets to work, deboning the pig, removing the ribs, and cutting the meat by hand. I'll cut it off just to put it back on the skin. Well, actually we're going to let Tony try it, to make sure it has his approval. What we do here, we want to make sure that the tenderness is there, that it's done. Mmmm, that's delicious. That is fantastic. Just when I'm ready to dig deeper, Ed tells me it's time to take the most important step. We're getting ready to season it.

That's putting the vinegar and pepper sauce on it. This is putting the icing on the cake. In eastern North Carolina, he won't find tomato in barbecue sauce. Get out your recipe cards. For every 100 pounds of pulled pork, simply add a lot of red and black pepper, lots and lots of sugar, even more salt, then a lot of vinegar, then mix everything together by hand. But it is not so easy. It's a serious matter. A little more salt. A little bit of white gold sugar. Did you put the crushed red pepper in there? A little too much.

Yes, there is too much vinegar in this. Oh yeah. Once Ed signs off, the meat is spread out and sprinkled with chunks of crunchy, pink-skinned pork rinds. Yes, I've been eating barbecue for days, but I haven't seen this. This is beautiful. Cooked pork skin, crispy and crispy. Everything I like about food, all on one plate. This is incredible. Okay, so what do you do with a whole cooked pig? On Cook's Tour we have seen salad bars, tapas bars and raw bars. And this is the famous pig bar. But a pig bar? We have the trotters, as we call them, pig tails, pig ears, and you have to try the chit'lins.

Yes, if there is a buffet in heaven, it looks a lot like that. (angelic music) The best pork leg I've ever had. And I've had my fair share of them. The problem with pork today is that they are widening the entire lean angle. This is a very bad way to go about promoting the glories of the pig. Bits of crispy skin. Man, this is beautiful. Well, it's pretty much my philosophy, if you're going to kill a pig, you should eat every part of it. I mean, if the pig ever comes after me and kills me, I hope he uses every bit of it.

Just when I think my research is over, I discover that barbecue has battles within battles. It turns out that there is a civil war in North Carolina. Well, when you talk about barbecue in North Carolina, you're talking about two major styles. You have your Eastern North Carolina barbecue, which is kind of a whole hog with vinegar, and you have your Western or Piedmont-Lexington style barbecue. And representing the west side are Bill Leeson and Jim Tabb. Even in a real war, these guys would be useful. Jim is a former pilot and Bill is an expert at blowing things up.

But in the barbecue war, they are generals. I asked them what defines their territory. Is it true what they say, it's all about the shoulder here? Back. Pretty. The shoulder is a juicy piece of meat. It has more fat on the shoulder than ham. Well. Strategy number one: wet palette. Yes, let's throw it on the grill. Strategy number two? Direct heat. As far as we're concerned, direct heat is the way to cook. That's right, direct heat. Instead of a separate fire chamber, these guys cook right above the flame. Well, how long do they last? Between 12 and 14 hours.

Let's turn them on. But it still takes 14 hours. That smoke is rolling now. Ready, Toni? That is pretty. Can someone hand me a knife? I know we won't need a knife. I get furious if we need a knife. Well. (Laughing) If you need a knife, you have roast pork. Do you see it's coming off the bone? No reason to worry, it looks like a knife won't be necessary. No, it will not be necessary. In terms of pulled pork, this is pulled pork as is. Looks great. Yes, you won't be able to resist, go ahead. This is your sauce right here.

What are you doing here, are you bathing or getting dressed? We're going to dive in. - Good Life. - Well. To hell with decorum. Dressing. Hey, wait here. We're in North Carolina and does this sauce have tomatoes? Traditionally, people in eastern Carolina thought tomatoes were poisonous. When they got west, they started adding tomatoes. Tomato. Tony, what we have here are pulled popsicles, red slaw, and Hush Puppies. Perfect. That's all it is. Piedmontese style barbecue. I like it here, I like it here a lot. This is great. I'm getting the idea that barbecue is a never-ending learning process.

And I'll be the first to say that we don't know everything, but we feel like we're doing it in North Carolina the way it was originally done. We were barbecuing when those Texas people were chasing cows. (cows mooing) So, I've searched high and low for the best barbecue in America. Apologies to Memphis and St. Louis. What is my only absolute conclusion? Barbecue is not a cuisine, it is an obsession. But the barbecue debate should make us all proud. Grillers are free-thinking individualists. So show the world what America is made of. Put on that apron and fire up those barbecues from sea to shining sea.

Now, where can I find a salad bar? (upbeat country music)