2020 Supra B58 Engine Teardown - First Look - Better than the 2JZ?
hey I'm Stephan papa daka's we're here at Papa Doc is racing today we got something pretty special a
Suprawith 500 miles on it we've got a big goal we actually want to make a thousand horsepower with this
enginelet's get started and tear it down so this
enginewas so new that we had to get an actual full vehicle to even get the
engineto pull apart it's an inline six-cylinder
enginewhich is what the superest have had for generations now except this one's much more modern it's kind of cool to see all the new technology that they put like this one everything was really lightweight the exhaust system it even had oval tubing on the exhaust everything was quite modular and relatively easy to take off and surprisingly the cars actually feels simpler than some of the older ones somewhere a couple years ago the cars got really complex with all the emissions control and everything but now the
Engineering's gotten to the point to where they've simplified it down again in the system's four so the
firstthing that came up when we got the
engineout was we realized we can't mount it on a normal
enginestand because the timing chain that runs from the crankshaft up to the cam gears it's actually on the back side of the
enginewhere the transmission mounts up and you can see here where it comes apart with the black silicone is coming out and since we usually bolt the
enginestand to where the transmission bolts up on the block we...
couldn't do it this time because that cover has to come off so we had to actually fabricate a bracket that goes from the
enginestand to where the motor mount bolts up on the side of the
engineblock and then once we got that set up we realized that the
enginestand was moving around quite a bit like flexing so then we added welds onto the
enginestand where it's just bolted to try to get to understand more rigid which actually worked pretty well once Shawn and I've stripped down all of the wiring and the hoses you could actually start seeing the block and cylinder head and the turbocharger and everything
firstthing you notice is there's only two exhaust ports but it's a six cylinder
enginewhat they've done is there's actually an internal exhaust manifold but I do like the elegance of the turbo actually bolting straight to the cylinder head here's the dry by wire throttle body and inside is where the intercooler is it's actually a water to air heat exchanger the reason you want the intercooler is because when the turbo compresses the air and makes the boost it actually makes the air temperature higher and that'll make it less dense air charge the intercooler it will cool it back down before it gets into the
enginethe air will be more dense and it'll actually make more power
firstthing we did is pulled off the throttle body and it's dry by wire you know modern cars don't use a throttle cable anymore that connect your foot...
to the throttle it's all electronic the speed of the electronics are actually faster than your foot can move if you're complaining at all about the way that your drive-by-wire is running or you don't like the response of it it's the tune-up it's actually not inherently a problem with drive-by-wire next we'll pull off the intake manifold you'll notice it's all plastic and somehow they're able to manufacture this with an intercooler inside of it you actually can't pull it apart it's bonded together this whole unit on the back of the block here is the thermostat housing and it doesn't use a traditional thermostat that opens and closes with temperature the ECU actually controls rotary valve inside of it and can change the water flow however it's programmed instead of it being mechanical like you know previous
engines here we've got the oil filter I really like these canister type oil filters because then you can see the actual element and anything that the filter has been picking up so this block is the oil to water or heat exchanger and what it does is this basely an oil cooler and it uses the radiator coolant to keep it cool the coolant flows through one way the oil flows through the other and if you
lookwhen I pour it you'll see oil out of one point and then the green coolant out of the other one this allows the oil to come up to temperature quicker that actually makes the oil system simpler because you don't...
have extra nut oil lines running out to some cooler on the front of the car once I've got the water pump and alternator bracket off we can move to the other side which is the turbocharger side exhaust side
firstthing we'll do is get all the hoses off this is the oil drain so the turbocharger needs to be lubricated after the oil goes through the turbo it gets returned to the pan through this hose pretty simple only six bolts and one bracket on the bottom and the whole turbocharger system came off and it's actually really lightweight which is nice you can see heat shield on the back and again just the the two exhaust ports so this is the whole ignition system direct coil on plug so this is the coil the igniter like whatever you're used to is all in this one package so there's just direct wiring from the ECU directly to these coil packs and then the spark plug goes down into that hole for the direct injection so all the fuel injectors are actually not in the ports they go directly into the combustion chamber this is a mechanical fuel pump because the direct injection runs at such high pressure thousands of psi you need a mechanical fuel pump to make those pressures so once I get the hard lines off for that I'll pop the mechanical fuel pump off and it's pretty neat design it bolts right here to this stand and the valve cover and you can see the mechanical part where it goes up and down and pumps the fuel inside which we'll get to later you'll...
see a lobe on the camshaft that is what actually pumps the pump up and down so this is the fuel rail this fuel rail and these injectors where you see the hole down in there there's a hole for the spark plug on the bottom and the hole for the injector on the top and both of those go directly into the cylinder when we have the head off in a little bit you'll be able to see those holes once we get the valve cover off you can see the adjustable cam gears so here the chain goes up to those gears and inside those gears the computer can control the location of that camshaft relative to the crankshaft and adjust the cam timing however the programmers program it then you can get the maximum fuel mileage more torque and actually more power we leave this stuff when we build the race
engines next I'm gonna pull out the spark plugs this was again another challenge where the spark plug socket was actually too big so I got myself with fourteen millimeter socket but found that the diameter was too big to fit in there we actually need a thinner wall and so I just went out to the lathe and turned it down a little bit and were able to get the spark plugs out so we'll turn the
enginea little bit and get to the oil pan this car and a lot of modern cars have some sort of warning when your oil level gets low and this is the sensor that goes into the oil pan that measures how much oil is in your
engineso once we get that sensor out you can set that aside and then start pulling off...
the entire oil pan and you'll notice it's a big aluminum oil pan they actually don't use gaskets there are very few gaskets on this entire
engineit just uses silicone to seal it up so a little bit of pry bar and we've got the oil pan off on the way to get the camshafts out we've got to get this whole timing chain off so this part is the timing chain tensioner so he keeps the right amount of tension on that chain once we get that off then we'll pull the timing cover off and remember this is the back of the
enginewhere the transmission bolts up normally all this timing chain stuff is on the front where the pulley is so I'll go over where the pulley is turn it and now you can see how the crankshaft turns down there at the bottom there's a chain that comes up to the top to turn both camshafts and a secondary chain way at the bottom turns the oil pump after we get the timing guides off I can set the timing chain aside and we can start pulling the camshafts out but before we do that I'm gonna describe what you're seeing here with the valve train so this is a dual overhead cam
enginewhich means as two cam and they pushed down on the vowels with these rocker arms relatively typical so on the exhaust is on the left the intake cams are on the right and the exhaust is relatively straightforward the cam lobe turns it pushes on that roller on the rocker the rocker then pushes down on the valve and opens the valve the valve spring is what's...
used to push it back up again the intake side is actually way more complex it's variable lifts camshaft setup and it still uses a camshaft but there's two separate rocker arms and it has an eccentric shaft that changes the rocker ratio so you can mechanically do it typically the computer controls this depending on the throttle position and the load and how they program it it'll have a different amount of camshaft lift when I turn it you can see this eccentric shaft moving that upper rocker and it changes the ratio and now when the camshaft moves it pushes the
firstrocker with that then pushes the second rocker down there and then eventually pushes down and opens up the intake valve
firstcouple out the exhaust cam will pop up the exhaust caps and this is the mechanical fuel pump stand you can see all the cam lobes and this one's a little bit different it's got three sides to it that's the lobe that pushes on the mechanical fuel pump and it pumps three times every time that camshaft turns pop the exhaust cam out set that aside the rocker arms just sit in there under the camshaft and they pivot on this with the color lifter it's a hydraulic lifter so these kind of
engines never need a valve adjustment and one thing I really do like is these rockers have this small little spring clip and it keeps the rocker from falling off the lifter if there's like valve float or something like that at really higher rpm some of the other
engines that we worked...
with in the past we've had problems with rocker arms falling off with racing but this should hopefully solve that issue on the intake cam side there's actually a special tool that you need to pull these springs off that I don't have so now we're improvising typically you wouldn't want to get in there with a pry bar and being as careful as I can be and it's kicking my ass so what I said it to do was get the spring unloaded as much as I could lean on it with this the pig mat so I don't nothing pops up at me wear my safety glasses on and just slowly pull the camshaft out and let the springs uncompress I wouldn't recommend doing this but you know it's for you guys man I gotta get this video done can't wait for tools to come in I'll definitely need the tool though when reassembling it once the cam caps are all off and I made sure that I didn't hurt myself and I didn't lose any parts we get the intake cam off and it's the eccentric shaft that adjust the rocker arm ratio now that we've got the cylinder head all stripped down you can see all of the components that there are and I've laid them all out in order where they came off that way when they go back together they can go back in the same location they they came from now we have access to the cylinder head bolts these are relatively straightforward t60 torques drive and get in there with my big breaker bar cuz these are all always torqued really high brace myself...
enginestand and then I'll turn them a quarter turn
firstjust to get them a little bit loose and then I'll get the gun and just zap them all the way out and I'm just peeking under to make sure I didn't forget anything I don't know I've never pulled the head off one of these before so I'm always trying to
lookaround and make sure I didn't forget anything or miss anything now we can see all six cylinders and the head gasket the orange that you're seeing is the sealant so coating that they put on there to make sure that none of the water or the oil ports leak out now that the cylinder heads off you can see in the combustion chamber the two lighter colored valves of the intake valves and the black valves of the exhaust valves you can see the threaded hole is where the spark plug goes and the hole right next to it is where the fuel injector inserts it injects the fuel directly into the chamber right there the
firstthing I noticed when I got the head off now is that it's a solid deck block I mean you see holes for the water and stuff but it's not an open water jacket and these are much stronger so I believe that this
enginehas tons of potential now let's flip the
engineover and we can start pulling the short block apart this bolt is actually reverse rotation I have been what reading a service manual on this and this is one of the reasons why I always want to read the manual if it's available because a bolt like...
this can really give you a bad day if you don't realize it's reverse rotation and you keep turning it counterclockwise to try to loosen it and you end up breaking it or something I knew ahead of time turn to clockwise came right moved on to the next thing so this is the combination windage tray and block girdle so it actually is pretty heavy it's a couple pounds and it's thick it ties in all of the crankshaft main caps and the skirts on the block and what's great about that is it makes the block a lot more rigid another thing that's really interesting about this
enginethere is no Center crank pulley bolt it's like a flange type pulley so it has these four bolts in order to turn it you have to get this at the special little socket and there it was easy to get this was 60 bucks another thing about this block that I really like is the oiling system you know that there's a bunch of oil that goes up to the head it has to get back into the oil pan so the way that they design these is they don't want that oil to end up on the crankshaft and create a bunch of windage so it actually comes down the side ports and ends up underneath the windage tray and straight into the pan so that way the crank shafts not splashing through any oil in the pan and creating windage and drag and if you
lookdown there you can see the oil squirter that little squirter pushes high-pressure oil on the bottom of the piston and it keeps the piston cool and actually helps...
lubricate the cylinder wall as well another thing I like to do is see if I can turn the
engineshort block by hand and actually this was really easy to turn which means it has really low friction rings in it which is good for high horsepower and efficiency so after I got the connecting rod cap off I noticed a couple things right away number one is it's got a cracked rod cap now that sounds like something's broken but it's actually a design we'll get to that in a minute when we start talking about the rod the other thing is it also has a coated rod bearing so I guess with all the automatic
enginestart/stop function stuff you know when you go to the stoplight and the
engineshuts off and turns back on again it can start wearing out their bearings a lot quicker so they have these coated bearings so there is no issue with that once it got the piston rod out we can get a closer
lookat what's going on with this rod design and if you
lookat it real close see how it's all porous and all this weird shape and for what I've seen the way that they crack the rods is they get in there with the laser and they scribe a line on the inside of the bore and there's a machine that comes down and splits the rod in two and then what ends up happening is when you bolt it back together it bolts exactly back in the same place every time and they don't have to machine all of the the surfaces the Pistons really modern also you could see where it's pocketed to...
reduce weight it uses a full floating pin and it's got some coating on it on the skirt this is a forged steel crankshaft which
looks relatively stout so we're gonna start with this I think this will definitely hold at least a thousand horsepower now when it was time to the pulley off I was like okay ah that didn't feel too safe so I got Matt to come help me out we put a couple of bolts in the back of the crankshaft there so it wouldn't spin and then I was able to loosen all of the bolts that hold the pulley on once I got the pulley off you can see how it's just a flange there's no actual snout to anymore on the crank and what's also trick is the block it has like this deep skirt and it just straight up has a hole in the side of it with the front main seal on it so I'll go ahead and loosen all the main cap bolts zap them all out with the gun and then I can start pulling the crank shaft out this definitely
looks like a solid race block one of the big questions is is this a worthy successor to the 2jz
enginetime will tell and the hood I get it right by partnering with BMW with this whole project so far I'm pretty impressed alright thanks for watching I hope you enjoyed it if you did please hit the like button and if you want to see more please consider subscribing this
teardownis part of a whole project where we're gonna actually build us back up and end up on the
enginedyno so if you want to see those videos stay tuned to the...
pop Doc's racing YouTube channel and if we've already produced the videos I'll put the links down in description see you later thank you wait how do you make it do that mode what do you push sport mode scaring me already