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2020 Supra 1000 HP Engine Assembly - Start to Finish

Feb 27, 2020
Hi, I'm Stephan Papadakis, you're here at our race shop in Carson, California, and we're continuing our project trying to make a thousand horsepower out of this

2020

super

engine

. We've already done a teardown and a video outlining all the different changes that went into it. What are we doing in the

engine

? I'll link both videos in the description below, but for now let's do the

assembly

, let's get

start

ed. The first thing we will do is install the crankshaft. Flip the engine over and we'll begin placing all the main bearings into the block. Actually, I didn't even wash it.
2020 supra 1000 hp engine assembly   start to finish
I took it apart, cleaned it. Everything was so perfect and so new. We're actually putting it back together with the same bearings and just cleaning it. Now put

assembly

lubricant. This is like a special thick assembly lubricant that is very sticky and stays put. We'll go ahead and take the original crankshaft. It would be nice to tinker with it until we get more displacement, but for now we'll stick with a stock Uno, we're pretty sure it'll hold up to the horsepower we want to make. Next we will place the main caps and the bearings are already assembled on the main caps.
2020 supra 1000 hp engine assembly   start to finish

More Interesting Facts About,

2020 supra 1000 hp engine assembly start to finish...

They are all numbered one through seven and this is a cool feature for these main caps instead of having a pin or something that lines them up, they have these slotted features that actually dig into the aluminum on the block and mark it. If you look, you can see a couple of lines where they line up the number. three main caps have the thrust bearings next we'll put the main bolts on the main bolts actually use what they call a Torx socket there's actually a lot of torque and just Torx bolts on this engine it took a little getting used to but actually , once I worked with it for a while, I didn't see that there was necessarily a downside to traditional hex bolts, so I'll just hand-send it a little bit to make sure everything feels right and then I'll go in. tighten it.
2020 supra 1000 hp engine assembly   start to finish
I have these trick torque wrenches that not only apply normal torque but also measure the angle in the way it is tightened. It's a base torque of 18 degrees and then an additional 65 degrees plus another 65 degrees, and these speakers are truly a trick. as far as you can switch between them so it can go to 18 and then press a button and then it goes to 65 degrees turn the bolt 65 degrees it knows how far you've gone and then you keep going down the line it even counts how much you've tightened a lot of bolts and again I'll make sure everything turns correctly.
2020 supra 1000 hp engine assembly   start to finish
Now we will install the custom forged je pistons and also the cheek chromoly rods and you will also notice that the pistons are coated, there is a special coating. on the top which helps resist heat and then the black coating on the side is to help with wear and tear on the board. What I'm going to do is move everything out of the way and first you put in these little clips. These little clips are what holding a pin to slide off and this is always a bit annoying, I haven't really found a really elegant way to do it.
I have a special tool, but I don't have that special tool for this pin diameter, so I'm going to go back to the old school style of using a screwdriver and manually assembling it once the pin is installed and then checking and making sure the piston and the rod are oriented the correct way because the valve reliefs on the top of the piston are slightly different position and size, you want to make sure you orient them correctly with the rod, so I'll double check and make sure those clips are completely installed. These are actually the rings that came off the engine that we designed the pistons for.
We're working with the factory Supra rings and we're not really even doing anything with the bores, so we're left with the same bore, the same polish, the same rings and we just replace the rods and pistons so the spring activates first . before the oil scrapers and then the oil scrapers go to the bottom ring the middle ring is usually a cast ring and that's why you don't want to turn it as much so what I'm going to do is just open it up from the center and then you can rotate the top ring without any problem.
We'll go ahead and install the rod bearings and the upper rod bearing is actually a coated bearing, the lower one uses a more traditional bearing which we actually had rods made like this in the future, if we want to put the upper coated bearing on the bottom, the tang will align so we can use any type of bearing on the bottom, but for now we'll just stick with the original configuration. I'll see how it wears out and then go from there. I'll continue to prep everything including assembly lube on the bolts, that way when we go to install it you can just go down the line and install all six rods and pistons. and not having to worry about getting dirty or anything like that with the mounting loop.
Now you see one of the reasons I use gloves. Quick cleanup, so put on some new gloves and apply assembly lube to the bearings and then just engine oil to the piston. skirts and rings to install the pistons, we will use this tapered piston installation tool and ARP makes them in several different sizes, so this one is 82 millimeters in diameter. I just ordered it up to 82 millimeters and it's tapered on the inside so it can fit on the top with the rings and everything and then it slowly compresses through all the rings until it's exactly 82 millimeters which is with the hole and then it slides right into the hole, we'll turn it over and then I realize, wait.
One minute I can't turn the crank. First I need to put the pulley on, as you can see it's a different type of pulley where instead of having a snout on the crankshaft and then the pulley slides on it, this is the flange style one where it just centers and then you have the four bolts to tighten it Shawn to help me we have a couple of bolts on the back where the flywheel goes and then I was able to tighten it now you can see there are a couple of pins that align the rod bearing cap once we have them aligned but the pre-lubricated Bolton I will hit them very fast at low torque and then torque it to your specifications.
I'll go ahead and do everything. all six rods and pistons so once you have them all in make sure everything spins nice there's clearance everywhere everything looks great so we'll move on to the head so this is a great bottom deflector bracket that unites all the main covers. with the skirt to the block and helps with the overall rigidity of the block. I'll tighten it next, we can install the oil pump, so there is a special chain that connects the crankshaft to the oil pump, so I'll install it first and then bolt it on. on the oil pump and once we have everything bolted together I can go ahead and install the oil pump gear once the oil pumps are installed.
I will make sure again that everything returns to normal. I will put a little silicone on the rear distribution cover. but before installing it, I have to put the main timing chain and both guides on it, so this engine requires torque to give the head bolts, but they are not reusable and we wanted to tighten it a little more due to the boost pressures. and horsepower that we want to achieve so I talked to an RP and an RP actually made us a custom bolt set for this engine and it's really tricky because the washers have a knurled side and the knurled side goes down into the aluminum and the smooth side is facing up. towards the nut that way when you tighten it only the nut turns on the washer and the washer doesn't turn on the aluminum side and that actually gives you a little more consistent torque.
This is actually a factory head gasket that is multiple. layer of steel and put the orange sealant on it to help seal all the oil and coolant passages. I like to put assembly lube on all the bolts before putting the heads on because once the heads are there it's hard to get to all of them. of those threads because they are a little deep in the head, the head we are putting in has had a lot of work done, it has super technological valves, spring retainers and this should handle the power we want to generate. We've also ported it and done a lot of work on the flow and if you're interested in that, check out the video above and we'll talk about everything.
I show you everything on the flow bench once the heads are installed. Forward. and put the washers on just lube on the top of the washer and then put that nut on there and torque it down to tighten them, although because it's such a high torque 135 foot-pounds, I'm going to go for half the large. The bad boy drives inches and will tighten it with that, but even with the big torque wrench, it's actually still a lot of work because if you think about it, if this thing is two feet long and I'm doing 135 foot-pounds, then you know I'm pulling almost 70 pounds every time I get to max torque, but that's what you have to do when you want to try to keep your head down with all that momentum, because when you're generating big boost, when you're generating big power, there are pressures of Really high cylinders not only push down on the piston but also try to push up and down on the cylinder head.
There's a very elaborate valve train on this and this is like a third camshaft and we'll get to that camshaft in a minute and how that. it works but first we are going to put all the rocker arms on the rocker arms they have a little hydraulic lifter that they pivot on and then the other side is on the valve the cam sits on top like most modern engines this one uses rocker arms of rollers, so when the cam pushes down on the rocker arm, it actually pushes down on that roller and the friction is much less than the old style where the cam pushes on a pad and actually slides on it, so we'll

start

with the exhaust cam, but when I realized As if to say, oh, wait a minute, when I put the cam in, everything was lined up because remember this is the first time I put the engine together, the first time I took one of these engines apart was in the other video. during disassembly and now this is the first time I'm putting one of these motors together and I realized wait a minute I have to line everything up but there are no timing marks on the pulley after doing a little research on the way It really lines up. up for top dead center as you need the flow plate there so I went to install the flex plate it only installs one way and you need the oil pan to align it so to turn the engine I had to pull of the rocker.
The arms went back because when I started the engine I didn't want the rocker arms to fall back down so I installed the pan and next we will install the oil level sensor. There is actually no dipstick on this engine to check the oil. level, everything is electronic with that sensor, so once I installed it I can install the special tool and the special tool passes the oil pan through a hole and it lines up in the slot and that's the top dead center, there is when that piston of cylinder number one. It's completely on top.
I need a little break so I had a little bar of chocolate and licked my fingers anyway so we went back to the engine put the rocker arms back in there and now we're installing the camshafts nice so the camshafts all They are in slightly different phases depending on the firing order of the cylinders when you install the eggs. Oh con, the lobe is actually pushing down and it doesn't lay flat so they actually make a special tool for that and once you screw it on. the head has these fingers that push down on the rocker arms and compress the springs and open the valve for that cylinder and allow the cam to come down and seat in the bearing races to align the entire cam chain correctly.
I need these special tools and the way it works is this bridge that bolts to the cylinder head and then there are these two teeth that then go and index into the flats of the camshaft. Once I had everything lined up, I was able to put the timing chain on and then install and tighten all the cam covers. Then you'll see this little engine and what it does is it adjusts the third camshaft which changes the rocker arm ratio for this intermediate rocker arm and it's a really complicated setup and what happens is it's a variable valve lift intake cam. which changes the valve lift depending on where the cam location is for this build we will end up locking that whole system for maximum lift but I haven't designed those parts yet but for now I'm going to Assemble everything as original and then do a few pieces a little later, the intermediate rocker arms are guided by these parts of the gate and each one has a slot that keeps the intermediate rocker arm aligned correctly and when I took this engine apart I didn't I didn't have the special tool for the intermediate rocker arms springs and I I took it apart, it wasn't very elegant, butI knew I needed it when I put it back together and I'll tell you what I thought at first, man, this sucks all these springs. and all these special tools, but once I got the tool and then used it, it was like there wasn't even a problem, you just put the spring in the tool and it has these little teeth that hold the two parts of the spring, then you compress it and you configure it. the cylinder head and then the spring ends go to the intermediate rocker arms and then once you released the special tool it is installed.
I had never used the tool before and installed all of this in less than 10 minutes if I had the special tool. it's totally fine once the entire valve train is installed then I can install the hydraulic timing chain tensioner and tighten it too and make sure it turns nice and then put the spark plugs back in and tighten them too so the valve cover start. black and it's plastic but I want to do a trick and we actually found something called seracote cer a nice powder coating but they can do it on plastic so it's pretty amazing and they had a red one which I also really liked once I The valve cover is all installed.
I install direct injection injectors, so these are the fuel injectors that go directly into the combustion chamber. We're probably not. We'll use them for our application, but to fill those holes that go into the combustion chamber, where we'll leave them installed for now, once you have all the spark plug coils installed, we'll take the engine out into the other room and We'll get all the intake and exhaust stuff into the stock intake manifold, it has an intercooler built into it, but we don't want to use it there, we want to use a traditional front mount intercooler and we'll also use port injectors. so we designed a special aluminum intake and since we needed it so quickly we 3D printed it in aluminum, believe it or not, nowadays you can print things in aluminum, thanks to the guys at MIMO technic to print the intake manifold, which they eliminated. of the park, this is incredible, so I have a ton of images of this and I will post a YouTube video soon, but for now I will just show you a couple of photos, both of the plenary and the corridors, all of this would not fit. on the printer so we had to print it in sections and then weld them together, install the stock throttle body that we will continue to use and then move on to the exhaust side once we installed the bolts.
I can install both. the exhaust gaskets and then the turbo header that we got from the full run the full run made us this exhaust manifold and I wish they could make the bolts easy to reach and they really were thanks to those guys for making this . easy to work on then we'll put the turbine housing on and then the whole turbocharger slides in and a couple of bolts that hold the turbocharger together in the setup we're going to run dual external wastegates so that the way the discharge gates are the same. The exhaust gases go through the header tubes and then turn the turbine wheel which turns the turbocharger, but when you get enough boost, you actually want to divert some of those exhaust gases and just go out into the atmosphere and form How it works is with a valve. inside the wastegate and when we reach a certain amount of boost the valve will open and divert the gases instead of going through the turbocharger it will go through the wastegate and then it won't spin the turbocharger any faster and that's it, We are all assembled.
I really liked how it turned out, not only the way the engine was put together, but also the look of the engine and the pan valve cover. I think it really completes it, it's like the icing on the cake. Alright, thanks for watching. I hope you enjoyed. Please hit the like button if you want to see more, consider subscribing to the video below. Let's take this to the engine dyno and try to make a thousand horsepower for now. See you later.

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