2020 Supra 1000 HP Engine Assembly - Start to Finish
hey I'm Stephan Papadakis you here at our race shop in Carson California and we're continuing our project trying to make a thousand horsepower out of this
enginewe've already done a teardown and a video describing all the different changes that we're making to the
engineI'll link to both of those videos in the description down below but for now we're gonna do the
started the first thing we're gonna do is put the crankshaft in I'll flip the
engineover and we'll
startputting all the main bearings in the block actually was never even washed I disassembled it wiped it down everything was so perfect and so new we're actually putting it back together with the same bearings and just wiped down now put
assemblylube this is like a special thick
assemblyLube that's really tacky and stays put we'll go ahead and grab the stock crankshaft it would be nice to stroke it to a bigger displacement but for now we're gonna stick with a stock one we're pretty confident is gonna hold up to the horsepower we want to make next we're gonna put the main caps on and the bearings are already assembled on the main caps they're all numbered one through seven and this is an interesting feature for these main caps instead of having a dowel or something that aligns them they have these grooved features that actually dig in to the aluminum in the block and mark it if you look you can see a couple of lines...
where they line up the number three main cap has the thrust bearings next we'll put in the main bolts the main bolts actually use what they call an e Torx socket there's actually a lot of a torques and just Torx bolts on this
engineit took a little bit of getting used to but actually once I worked with it for a while I didn't see that there's necessarily a downside from traditional hex bolts so I'll send him down a little bit by hand to make sure everything feels okay and then I'll go in torque it I've got these trick torque wrenches that not only do the normal torque but also measure the angle the way you torque these is an 18-degree base torque and then 65 degrees additional plus another 65 degrees and these talkers is a really trick to where you can switch in between so I can go 18 and then hit a button and then it goes to 65 degrees turn the bolt 65 degrees it knows how far you've gone and then you just keep going down the line it even counts how many bolts you've torqued and again I'll just make sure that everything spins properly now we're gonna install the custom forged j√© pistons and also the chromoly carrillo rods and you'll also notice that the pistons are coated there's a special coating on the top that helps resist the heat and then the black coating on the side is to help with wear on the board what I'll do is get everything out of the way and you put these little clips in first these little clips are what...
the hold is a pin from sliding out and these are always a bit of a pain there haven't really found a really elegant way of doing it I do have a special tool but that special tool I don't have for this diameter pin so we'll go back to the old-school style of using a screwdriver and manually assembling it once the pin is installed and then double check and make sure the piston and rod are orientated the right way because the valve reliefs on the top of the piston are slightly different position and size you want to make sure that you orientate that right with the rod so I'll double check and make sure those clips are installed all the way these are actually the Rings that came out of the
enginewe designed the Pistons to work with the factory
Suprarings and we're actually not even doing anything to the bores so we're sticking with the same bore the same hone the same rings and we're just replacing the rods and pistons so the spring that goes on first before the oil scrapers and then the oil scrapers go on all to that bottom ring land the middle ring is usually a cast ring and that's why you don't want to like twist it so much so what I'll do is I'll just open it up from the center and then the top ring you can actually twist on with no problem we'll go ahead and install the rod bearings and the top rod bearing is actually a coated bearing the bottom uses a more traditional bearing we actually had the rods made so in the future if...
we want to put the top coated bearing also on the bottom the Tang will align up so we can actually use either type of bearing on the bottom but for now we're just gonna stick with the stock set up see how that wears and then go from there I'm gonna continue to get everything all prepped including the
assemblylube on the bolts that way when we go to install it it can just go through the line and install all six of the rods and pistons and not have to worry about getting dirty or anything like that with the
assemblyloop now you see one of the reasons I wear the gloves quick clean up so put some fresh gloves on get
assemblylube on the bearings and then just
engineoil on the piston skirts and the Rings to install the Pistons we're gonna use this tapered piston installation tool and ARP makes them in a bunch of different sizes so this is an 82 millimeter bore I just ordered it up to 82 millimeter and it's tapered inside so it's able to fit in the top with the Rings and everything and then it slowly compresses all over the Rings down until it's exactly 82 millimeters which is with the bore and then pop it slides right into the bore we'll flip it over and then I realize wait a minute I can't turn the crank I need to put the pulley on first as you can see it's a different type of pulley where instead of having a snout on the crankshaft and then the pulley slides over it this is the flange style one where it just centers and then you've got...
the four bolts in order to torque it Shawn to help me out we've got a couple of bolts in the back where the flywheel goes and then I was able to torque it now you can see there's a couple of dowel pins that align the rod bearing cap once we've got those aligned but the pre lubed Bolton I'll zap them in real quick to a low torque and then torque him to their spec I'll go ahead and do all the six rods and pistons just like that once I get them all in make sure everything turns well there's clearance everywhere everything looks great so we'll move on to the head so this is a big lower baffle brace that ties in all of the main caps with the skirt to the block and helps the whole rigidity of the block I'll torque that on next we can install the oil pump so there's a special chain that connect the crankshaft with the oil pump so I'll install that first and then bolt on the oil pump and once we get that all bolted on I can go ahead and put the oil pump gear on once the oil pumps all installed I'll again make sure everything turns normal the rear timing cover I'll put some silicone on it but before we install it I got to put the main timing chain on it and both of the guides so stock this
enginetakes torque to yield head bolts but they're not reusable and we wanted to torque it a bit higher because of the boost pressures and horsepower we wanna make so talk to a RP and a RP actually made us a custom set of studs for this
it's really tricked because the washers have a knurled side and the knurled side goes down towards the aluminum and the smooth side is up towards the nut that way when you torque it only the nut is turning on the washer and the washer doesn't turn on the aluminum side and that actually gives you a bit more consistent of a torque this is actually a factory head gasket that's multi-layer steel and they put the orange sealant on there to help seal up all of the oil and coolant passages I like to put
assemblylube on all of the studs before I put the head on because once the heads on there it's hard to get to all of those threads because they're kind of deep into the head the head we're putting on has had a bunch of work done to it it's got super tech valves Springs retainers keepers and this should handle the power that we want to make we've also ported it and done a bunch of work to the flow and if you're interested in that check out the previous video to this and we talked about all of it I show you everything on the flow bench once the heads install - go ahead and put the washers simply Lube on the top of the washer and then get that nut on there and torque it all down in order to torque these though because it's such a high torque 135 foot-pounds I'm gonna go get the big half-inch drive bad boy and will torque it with that but even with the big torque wrench it's actually still a lot of work because if you think about it if...
this thing's a two feet long and I'm doing 135 foot-pounds then you know I'm pulling almost 70 pounds each time I get to maximum torque but that's what you need to do when you want to try to keep the head down with all that boost because when you're making big boost when you're making big power there's really high cylinder pressures not only push down on the piston but trying to push up down the head as well there's a really elaborate valve train in this and this is like a third camshaft and that camshaft we'll get to in a minute and how that works but first we're gonna put all the rocker arms in the rockers have a little hydraulic lifter which they pivot on and then the other side is on the valve the cam sits on top of it like most modern
engines this one uses roller rockers so when the cam pushes down on the rocker it actually pushes down on that roller and the friction is much lower than the old style where the cam pushes on a pad and actually slides on it so we'll
startwith the exhaust cam but when I noticed like I was like oh wait a minute when I put the cam in I got a line everything up because remember this is the first time I've actually assembled the
enginethe first time I've disassembled one of these
engines was in the other video during the teardown and now this is the first time I'm assembling one of these
engines and I realized wait a minute I have to line everything up but there are no timing marks on the...
pulley after a little bit of research the way you actually line up for top dead center as you need the flux plate on there so I went install the flex plate it only installs one way and you need the oil pan to actually line it up so in order to turn the
engineover I had to pull the rocker arms back off because when I turned the
engineover I didn't want the rocker arms to fall back out so I installed the pan and the next we're gonna install the oil level sensor there's actually no dipstick in this
engineto check the oil level it's all electronic with that sensor so once I got that installed I can install the special tool and the special tool goes do the oil pan through a hole and lines up in the slot and that's top dead center that's when that piston of number one cylinder is all the way at the top I need a little break so had a little candy bar and did I lick my fingers anyways so back to the
enginegot the rockers back in there and now we're installing the cam shafts well so the cam shafts are all phased a little bit different depending on the firing order of the cylinders when you install the eggs ah scam the lobe is actually pushing down and it doesn't sit flat so they actually make a special tool for that and once you bolt it to the head it's got these fingers that push down on the rocker arms and compress the springs and open up the valve for that cylinder and allows the cam to come down and sit into the bearing races in order to get...
all the cam chain lined up properly you need these special tools and the way it works is this bridge bolts to the cylinder head and then there is these two like teeth part that then go and index themselves on the flats of the cam shaft once I got all that lined up I could put the timing chain on and then install and torque all the cam caps next you'll see this little motor and what this does is adjust the third camshaft which changes the rocker ratio for this intermediate rocker and it's a really trick setup and what happens is it's a variable valve lift intake cam that changes the valve lift depending on where that cam location is for this build we're gonna end up blocking all that system out to maximum lift but I haven't designed those parts yet but for now I'm gonna assemble the whole thing like stock and then make some parts a little bit later the intermediate rockers are guided by these gate parts and they each have the slot in it that keeps the intermediate rocker all lined up properly and when I took this
engineapart I didn't have the special tool for the intermediate rocker Springs and I got it apart it wasn't very elegant but I knew I needed it when I reassembled it and I'll tell you what at first I was like dude this sucks all these Springs and all these special tools but once I got the tool and then used it it was like not even a problem you just put the spring in the tool and it has these little teeth that hold the two spring...
parts you then compress it set it up in the cylinder head and then the spring ends go on to the intermediate rockers and then once she released the special tool its installed I've never even used the tool before and I installed all this in like less than 10 minutes if you had the special tool it's totally fine once all the valves train is installed then I can install the hydraulic timing chain tensioner and torque that in as well and make sure it spins nicely followed by putting in the spark plugs again torquing the spark plugs as well so the valve cover
started off black and it's plastic but I want to do something trick and we actually found this thing called seracote cer a nice like powder coating but they can do it on the plastic so it's pretty amazing and they had a red I really liked too once the valve cover is all installed I can install the direct injection injectors so this is the fuel injectors that go directly into the combustion chamber we're probably not going to use these for our application but in order to fill those holes that go into the combustion chamber where does gonna leave those installed for now once I've got the spark plug coils all installed will will the
engineout to the other room and we'll get all of the intake and exhaust stuff on the stock intake manifold has an intercooler built inside of it but we don't want to use it there we want to use a traditional front mount intercooler and we're also gonna use port...
injectors so we designed a special aluminum intake and because we needed it so quick we had it 3d printed out of aluminum believe it or not they can print stuff out of aluminum nowadays thanks to the guys at MIMO technic for printing the intake manifold they knocked it out of the park this thing's amazing so I actually have a bunch of footage from this then I'm gonna put in a YouTube video soon but for now just show you a couple of pictures both the plenum and the runners the whole thing wouldn't fit into the printer so we had to print it into sections and then weld it together well install the stock throttle body that we're gonna continue to use and then move over to the exhaust side once we had the studs installed I can install the both of the exhaust gaskets and then the turbo header we got from full race the full race made us this exhaust manifold and I would like could you guys please make the bolts easy to get to and they actually really were so thanks to those guys for making this thing easy to work on then we'll put the turbine housing on and then the whole turbocharger slides right in and a couple of bolts that hold the turbocharger together on the setup we're gonna run dual external wastegates so the way the waste gates work the exhaust gases go through the header tubes and then turn the turbine wheel which turns the turbocharger but when it gets too enough boost you want to actually divert some of that exhaust gas and just go out into the...
atmosphere and the way that works is there's a valve inside the wastegate and when we hit a certain amount of boost the valve will open and divert gasses instead of going through the turbocharger it'll go through the waste gate and then not turn the turbocharger any faster and that's it we're all assembled I really like how it turned out not only the way that